https://regrs.org/w/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Marcus+Wolf&feedformat=atomRedwood Empire Garden Railway Society Wiki - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T06:06:52ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.23.1https://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Garden_Railway_Manufacturers_ListGarden Railway Manufacturers List2017-04-10T23:12:26Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div>==G-SCALE MODEL RAIL ROAD SUPPLIES==<br />
<br />
<br />
===The REGRS Handy List for Large Scale Garden Railroad Hobbyists===<br />
<br />
The following manufacturers are the backbone of the model railroading hobby. The locomotives and rolling stock for passenger and freight trains that you see on a garden railroad layout -- including all of the trackside buildings for farms, towns, and industries; railroad depot and passenger accessories; remote control and automation engineering; realistic sound and light systems; figures of people of varied eras and occupations; diecast automobiles, trucks, and motorcycles; finely painted domestic and wild animal figurines; bridges, trestles, and tunnel portals; and a myriad of other "dollhouse style" details such as cargo loads, steamer trunks and suitcases, street lights, wrought iron fencing, park and garden benches, billboards and signs, trash cans, miniature potted plants, garage and wood shop equipment, and tiny workmens' tools -- were either crafted by individual railroad modelers themselves or they were made by one of these great manufacturers of hobby railroad equipment. They may be supplied in the form of full-painted and ready-to-install pieces or they may be provided in raw metal, wood, resin, plastic, or ceramics, for the individual hobby modeler to finish. Some of these manufactuurers also supply small railroad quipment parts, such as switch stands, grab-bars, wheels, hatches, doors, and couplers, for those who are into kit-bashing.<br />
If you are new to Garden Railroading, please note that many of these model railroad manufacturers also produce items in other popular scales, so when viewing a model railroad manufacturer's web site, or inquiring about products that are for sale to the public always specify "G-Scale," "Large Scale" or a specific numerical scale -- such as 1:32, 1:29, 1:24, 1:22.5, or 1:20.3 -- in order to get the products that look best on your layout.<br />
<br />
The manufacturers listed on this page range in size from large corporations that primarily sell through dealerships at hobby and model train stores and shows to dedicated home hobbyists who hand-craft high-quality items in short runs or on an as-needed basis for individual customers or for sale at model train shows. What all of the manufacturers listed have in common is that they all work in Large Scale and they all have web sites. (Sorry; we do not list manufacturers who do not have web sites. Also note that this list of G-Scale railroad manufacturers is not a list ]of train, craft, hobby, or follhouse stores, online or on the street.)<br />
<br />
If you click on a manufacturer or supplier's logo, a new page will open that takes you to that company's web site. Again, when you get to one of these sites, please be aware that model railroading comes in many scales and sizes, so if a manufacturer offers more than one scale or size, be sure to click on the site's link that says "G-Scale" or "Large-Scale" to see what they offer in the way of Garden Railway supplies.<br />
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[[File:Accucraft-logo.gif|center|link="http://www.accucraft.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Accucraft Trains:</b> <br />
<br> "Museum quality brass electric and live steam locomotives and detailed rolling stock"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<br />
<br />
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[[File:Aster-Hobby-logo.gif]]<a title="airwire" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="airwire" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
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<b>Airwire:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
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<a title="AMS" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
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<b>AMS:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
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<a title="Argyle Locomotive Works" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Argyle Locomotive Works:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
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--><br />
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[[File:Aster-Hobby-logo.gif|left|200px|link="http://www.asterhobbyusa.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Aster Hobby USA:</b> <br />
<br> "Exclusive importer and distributor for Aster Live Steam locomotives and accessories."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
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<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Bachmann bros logo.png|left|200px|link="http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewCat&amp;catId=50"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Bachmann Trains:</b> <br />
<br> "Locomotives, rolling stock, and more; the perfect introduction to large scale model railroading."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<br />
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<a title="Banta Models" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Banta Models:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
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--><br />
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<a title="Brudge Werks" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Bridge Werks:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
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<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Bridge Masters" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Bridge Masters:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
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--><br />
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<a title="Cedarleaf Custom Decals" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Cedarleaf Custom Decals:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
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<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Cheddar Models Ltd." href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Cheddar Models Ltd.:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
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<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Colorado Model Structures" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Colorado Model Structures:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
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<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Crest Electronics href= "http://www.crest-electronics.net" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Crest Electronics:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
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<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Eagle Wings Iron Craft" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Eagle Wings Iron Craft:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Gold logo web.gif|center|link="http://www.h-l-w.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Hartland Locomotive Works:</b> <br />
<br> "American made, high-quality, affordable G-Scale locomotives, rolling stock, and track."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Kadeelogo.jpg|left|200px|link="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/Gplc.htm"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Kadee, The Coupler People:</b> <br />
<br>"Large-Scale couplers and gear boxes, reote control uncuplers. decals, metal wheels."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
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<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Logo LRP brown20998.jpg|left|200px|link="http://lightrailproducts.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Light Rail Products:</b> <br />
<br> "G-scale interurbans and streetcars, also known as trolleys or light rail vehicles."<br />
</td> <br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Phils-Narrow-Gauge-Logo.gif|left|200px|link="http://www.philsnarrowgauge.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Phil's Narrow Gauge:</b> <br />
<br> "Brass switch stands, fine cast metal accessories, custom rolling stock in 1:20.3 scale."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:PAM Logo.jpg|left|200px|link="http://www.piko-america.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Piko America:</b> <br />
<br> "400 affordable, German-made, G-Scale locomotives, cars, track, accessories, and buildings"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Mth 1gauge logo.jpg|left|200px|link="http://www.railking1gauge.com/default.asp"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Rail King One-Gauge by MTH Electric Trains:</b> <br />
<br> "1:32 scale (G Gauge) American-prototype garden railway models."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Split-Jaw-Logo.jpg|center|link="http://www.railclamp.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Split Jaw Products:</b> <br />
<br> "Rail clamps, roadbed, railbed, electronics, and E-Z Loaders."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Train-Li logo.gif|left|200px|link="http://train-li-usa.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Train-Li USA:</b> <br />
<br> "Rolling stock, engines, track, switches, accessories, sound, repair service, parts."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Usalogot.gif|left|200px|link="http://www.usatrains.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>USA Trains by Charles Ro:</b> <br />
<br> "Largest selection of G-Scale rolling stock in the world; custom billroard reefers."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:WoodlandScenics Logo.png|left|200px|link="http://woodlandscenics.com/show/category/GScaleFigures"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td><br />
<b>Woodland Scenics Figures:</b> <br />
<br> "Bring your layout to life with G-Scale figures and accents with authentic detail."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
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<a title="XXX" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
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<b>XXX:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
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</table><br />
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<br />
<!-- ===MORE LINKS ARE COMING SOON (PLEASE BE PATIENT): <br>===<br />
Airwire<br> <br />
AMS <br><br />
Argyle Locomotive Works<br><br />
Banta<br> <br />
BridgeWerks<br> <br />
Bridge Masters<br> <br />
Cedarleaf Custom Decals<br> <br />
Cheddar Models Ltd.<br> <br />
Colorado Model Structures<br> <br />
Crest Electronics<br> <br />
Eagle Wings Iron Craft <br><br />
Hillman Rail Clamps<br> <br />
Korber Models<br> <br />
Lionel<br> <br />
Llagas Creek Track <br> <br />
Marklin <br><br />
Ozark Miniatures <!-- ozark-miniatures-logo.png --><br> <!--<br />
Pacific Coast Garden Railway Supply<br> <br />
Phoenix Sound<br> <br />
Pola<br> <br />
Preiser<br> <br />
QSI Solutions<br> <br />
Regner <!--Steam tractors among other things--><br> <!--<br />
Rio Grande Models UK<br> <br />
Roundhouse <!--http://www.roundhouse-eng.com/ manufacturers of live steam locomotives for 'G' Scale since 1982--> <br> <!--<br />
Shortline car & foundry <br><br />
Somethin' Diffrent<br> <br />
Stoneworks <!--a resource for G-scale windows & doors, quarried stone, ballast, hand split slate, "how to" information and plans. http://www.rrstoneworks.com/--><br> <!--<br />
Switchcrafters<br> <br />
Rainbow Ridge Kits<br> <br />
Somethin' Diffrent<br> --></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Garden_Railway_Manufacturers_ListGarden Railway Manufacturers List2017-04-10T23:09:55Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div>==G-SCALE MODEL RAIL ROAD SUPPLIES==<br />
<br />
<br />
===The REGRS Handy List for Large Scale Garden Railroad Hobbyists===<br />
<br />
The following manufacturers are the backbone of the model railroading hobby. The locomotives and rolling stock for passenger and freight trains that you see on a garden railroad layout -- including all of the trackside buildings for farms, towns, and industries; railroad depot and passenger accessories; remote control and automation engineering; realistic sound and light systems; figures of people of varied eras and occupations; diecast automobiles, trucks, and motorcycles; finely painted domestic and wild animal figurines; bridges, trestles, and tunnel portals; and a myriad of other "dollhouse style" details such as cargo loads, steamer trunks and suitcases, street lights, wrought iron fencing, park and garden benches, billboards and signs, trash cans, miniature potted plants, garage and wood shop equipment, and tiny workmens' tools -- were either crafted by individual railroad modelers themselves or they were made by one of these great manufacturers of hobby railroad equipment. They may be supplied in the form of full-painted and ready-to-install pieces or they may be provided in raw metal, wood, resin, plastic, or ceramics, for the individual hobby modeler to finish. Some of these manufactuurers also supply small railroad quipment parts, such as switch stands, grab-bars, wheels, hatches, doors, and couplers, for those who are into kit-bashing.<br />
If you are new to Garden Railroading, please note that many of these model railroad manufacturers also produce items in other popular scales, so when viewing a model railroad manufacturer's web site, or inquiring about products that are for sale to the public always specify "G-Scale," "Large Scale" or a specific numerical scale -- such as 1:32, 1:29, 1:24, 1:22.5, or 1:20.3 -- in order to get the products that look best on your layout.<br />
<br />
The manufacturers listed on this page range in size from large corporations that primarily sell through dealerships at hobby and model train stores and shows to dedicated home hobbyists who hand-craft high-quality items in short runs or on an as-needed basis for individual customers or for sale at model train shows. What all of the manufacturers listed have in common is that they all work in Large Scale and they all have web sites. (Sorry; we do not list manufacturers who do not have web sites. Also note that this list of G-Scale railroad manufacturers is not a list ]of train, craft, hobby, or follhouse stores, online or on the street.)<br />
<br />
If you click on a manufacturer or supplier's logo, a new page will open that takes you to that company's web site. Again, when you get to one of these sites, please be aware that model railroading comes in many scales and sizes, so if a manufacturer offers more than one scale or size, be sure to click on the site's link that says "G-Scale" or "Large-Scale" to see what they offer in the way of Garden Railway supplies.<br />
<br />
<p><br />
<br><br clear=all><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="8" border="1"><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<br />
[[File:Accucraft-logo.gif|center|link="http://www.accucraft.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Accucraft Trains:</b> <br />
<br> "Museum quality brass electric and live steam locomotives and detailed rolling stock"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Aster-Hobby-logo.gif]]<a title="airwire" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="airwire" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Airwire:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="AMS" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>AMS:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Argyle Locomotive Works" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Argyle Locomotive Works:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Aster-Hobby-logo.gif|left|200px|link="http://www.asterhobbyusa.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Aster Hobby USA:</b> <br />
<br> "Exclusive importer and distributor for Aster Live Steam locomotives and accessories."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Bachmann bros logo.png|left|200px|link="http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewCat&amp;catId=50"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Bachmann Trains:</b> <br />
<br> "Locomotives, rolling stock, and more; the perfect introduction to large scale model railroading."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Banta Models" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Banta Models:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Brudge Werks" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Bridge Werks:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Bridge Masters" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Bridge Masters:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<br />
<!-- <br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Cedarleaf Custom Decals" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Cedarleaf Custom Decals:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Cheddar Models Ltd." href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Cheddar Models Ltd.:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Colorado Model Structures" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Colorado Model Structures:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Crest Electronics href= "http://www.crest-electronics.net" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Crest Electronics:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Eagle Wings Iron Craft" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Eagle Wings Iron Craft:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Gold logo web.gif|center|link="http://www.h-l-w.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Hartland Locomotive Works:</b> <br />
<br> "American made, high-quality, affordable G-Scale locomotives, rolling stock, and track."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Kadeelogo.jpg|left|200px|link="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/Gplc.htm"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Kadee, The Coupler People:</b> <br />
<br>"Large-Scale couplers and gear boxes, reote control uncuplers. decals, metal wheels."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Logo LRP brown20998.jpg|left|200px|link="http://lightrailproducts.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Light Rail Products:</b> <br />
<br> "G-scale interurbans and streetcars, also known as trolleys or light rail vehicles."<br />
</td> <br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Phils-Narrow-Gauge-Logo.gif|left|200px|link="http://www.philsnarrowgauge.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Phil's Narrow Gauge:</b> <br />
<br> "Brass switch stands, fine cast metal accessories, custom rolling stock in 1:20.3 scale."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:PAM Logo.jpg|left|200px|link="http://www.piko-america.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Piko America:</b> <br />
<br> "400 affordable, German-made, G-Scale locomotives, cars, track, accessories, and buildings"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Mth 1gauge logo.jpg|left|200px|link="http://www.railking1gauge.com/default.asp"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Rail King One-Gauge by MTH Electric Trains:</b> <br />
<br> "1:32 scale (G Gauge) American-prototype garden railway models."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Split-Jaw-Logo.jpg|center|link="http://www.railclamp.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Split Jaw Products:</b> <br />
<br> "Rail clamps, roadbed, railbed, electronics, and E-Z Loaders."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Train-Li logo.gif|left|200px|link="http://train-li-usa.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Train-Li USA:</b> <br />
<br> "Rolling stock, engines, track, switches, accessories, sound, repair service, parts."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Usalogot.gif|left|200px|link="http://www.usatrains.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>USA Trains by Charles Ro:</b> <br />
<br> "Largest selection of G-Scale rolling stock in the world; custom billroard reefers."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:WoodlandScenics Logo.png|left|200px|link="http://woodlandscenics.com/show/category/GScaleFigures"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td><br />
<b>Woodland Scenics Figures:</b> <br />
<br> "Bring your layout to life with G-Scale figures and accents with authentic detail."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="XXX" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>XXX:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<br />
</table><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
===MORE LINKS ARE COMING SOON (PLEASE BE PATIENT): <br>===<br />
Airwire<br> <br />
AMS <br><br />
Argyle Locomotive Works<br><br />
Banta<br> <br />
BridgeWerks<br> <br />
Bridge Masters<br> <br />
Cedarleaf Custom Decals<br> <br />
Cheddar Models Ltd.<br> <br />
Colorado Model Structures<br> <br />
Crest Electronics<br> <br />
Eagle Wings Iron Craft <br><br />
Hillman Rail Clamps<br> <br />
Korber Models<br> <br />
Lionel<br> <br />
Llagas Creek Track <br> <br />
Marklin <br><br />
Ozark Miniatures <!-- ozark-miniatures-logo.png --><br> <br />
Pacific Coast Garden Railway Supply<br> <br />
Phoenix Sound<br> <br />
Pola<br> <br />
Preiser<br> <br />
QSI Solutions<br> <br />
Regner <!--Steam tractors among other things--><br> <br />
Rio Grande Models UK<br> <br />
Roundhouse <!--http://www.roundhouse-eng.com/ manufacturers of live steam locomotives for 'G' Scale since 1982--> <br><br />
Shortline car & foundry <br><br />
Somethin' Diffrent<br> <br />
Stoneworks <!--a resource for G-scale windows & doors, quarried stone, ballast, hand split slate, "how to" information and plans. http://www.rrstoneworks.com/--><br> <br />
Switchcrafters<br> <br />
Rainbow Ridge Kits<br> <br />
Somethin' Diffrent<br></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Garden_Railway_Manufacturers_ListGarden Railway Manufacturers List2017-04-10T23:08:56Z<p>Marcus Wolf: added more links section</p>
<hr />
<div>=G-SCALE MODEL RAIL ROAD SUPPLIES=<br />
<br />
<br />
==The REGRS Handy List for Large Scale Garden Railroad Hobbyists==<br />
<br />
The following manufacturers are the backbone of the model railroading hobby. The locomotives and rolling stock for passenger and freight trains that you see on a garden railroad layout -- including all of the trackside buildings for farms, towns, and industries; railroad depot and passenger accessories; remote control and automation engineering; realistic sound and light systems; figures of people of varied eras and occupations; diecast automobiles, trucks, and motorcycles; finely painted domestic and wild animal figurines; bridges, trestles, and tunnel portals; and a myriad of other "dollhouse style" details such as cargo loads, steamer trunks and suitcases, street lights, wrought iron fencing, park and garden benches, billboards and signs, trash cans, miniature potted plants, garage and wood shop equipment, and tiny workmens' tools -- were either crafted by individual railroad modelers themselves or they were made by one of these great manufacturers of hobby railroad equipment. They may be supplied in the form of full-painted and ready-to-install pieces or they may be provided in raw metal, wood, resin, plastic, or ceramics, for the individual hobby modeler to finish. Some of these manufactuurers also supply small railroad quipment parts, such as switch stands, grab-bars, wheels, hatches, doors, and couplers, for those who are into kit-bashing.<br />
If you are new to Garden Railroading, please note that many of these model railroad manufacturers also produce items in other popular scales, so when viewing a model railroad manufacturer's web site, or inquiring about products that are for sale to the public always specify "G-Scale," "Large Scale" or a specific numerical scale -- such as 1:32, 1:29, 1:24, 1:22.5, or 1:20.3 -- in order to get the products that look best on your layout.<br />
<br />
The manufacturers listed on this page range in size from large corporations that primarily sell through dealerships at hobby and model train stores and shows to dedicated home hobbyists who hand-craft high-quality items in short runs or on an as-needed basis for individual customers or for sale at model train shows. What all of the manufacturers listed have in common is that they all work in Large Scale and they all have web sites. (Sorry; we do not list manufacturers who do not have web sites. Also note that this list of G-Scale railroad manufacturers is not a list ]of train, craft, hobby, or follhouse stores, online or on the street.)<br />
<br />
If you click on a manufacturer or supplier's logo, a new page will open that takes you to that company's web site. Again, when you get to one of these sites, please be aware that model railroading comes in many scales and sizes, so if a manufacturer offers more than one scale or size, be sure to click on the site's link that says "G-Scale" or "Large-Scale" to see what they offer in the way of Garden Railway supplies.<br />
<br />
<p><br />
<br><br clear=all><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="8" border="1"><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<br />
[[File:Accucraft-logo.gif|center|link="http://www.accucraft.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Accucraft Trains:</b> <br />
<br> "Museum quality brass electric and live steam locomotives and detailed rolling stock"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Aster-Hobby-logo.gif]]<a title="airwire" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="airwire" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Airwire:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="AMS" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>AMS:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Argyle Locomotive Works" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Argyle Locomotive Works:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Aster-Hobby-logo.gif|left|200px|link="http://www.asterhobbyusa.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Aster Hobby USA:</b> <br />
<br> "Exclusive importer and distributor for Aster Live Steam locomotives and accessories."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Bachmann bros logo.png|left|200px|link="http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewCat&amp;catId=50"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Bachmann Trains:</b> <br />
<br> "Locomotives, rolling stock, and more; the perfect introduction to large scale model railroading."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Banta Models" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Banta Models:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Brudge Werks" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Bridge Werks:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Bridge Masters" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Bridge Masters:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<br />
<!-- <br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Cedarleaf Custom Decals" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Cedarleaf Custom Decals:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Cheddar Models Ltd." href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Cheddar Models Ltd.:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Colorado Model Structures" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Colorado Model Structures:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Crest Electronics href= "http://www.crest-electronics.net" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Crest Electronics:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Eagle Wings Iron Craft" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Eagle Wings Iron Craft:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Gold logo web.gif|center|link="http://www.h-l-w.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Hartland Locomotive Works:</b> <br />
<br> "American made, high-quality, affordable G-Scale locomotives, rolling stock, and track."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Kadeelogo.jpg|left|200px|link="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/Gplc.htm"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Kadee, The Coupler People:</b> <br />
<br>"Large-Scale couplers and gear boxes, reote control uncuplers. decals, metal wheels."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Logo LRP brown20998.jpg|left|200px|link="http://lightrailproducts.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Light Rail Products:</b> <br />
<br> "G-scale interurbans and streetcars, also known as trolleys or light rail vehicles."<br />
</td> <br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Phils-Narrow-Gauge-Logo.gif|left|200px|link="http://www.philsnarrowgauge.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Phil's Narrow Gauge:</b> <br />
<br> "Brass switch stands, fine cast metal accessories, custom rolling stock in 1:20.3 scale."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:PAM Logo.jpg|left|200px|link="http://www.piko-america.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Piko America:</b> <br />
<br> "400 affordable, German-made, G-Scale locomotives, cars, track, accessories, and buildings"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Mth 1gauge logo.jpg|left|200px|link="http://www.railking1gauge.com/default.asp"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Rail King One-Gauge by MTH Electric Trains:</b> <br />
<br> "1:32 scale (G Gauge) American-prototype garden railway models."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Split-Jaw-Logo.jpg|center|link="http://www.railclamp.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Split Jaw Products:</b> <br />
<br> "Rail clamps, roadbed, railbed, electronics, and E-Z Loaders."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Train-Li logo.gif|left|200px|link="http://train-li-usa.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Train-Li USA:</b> <br />
<br> "Rolling stock, engines, track, switches, accessories, sound, repair service, parts."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Usalogot.gif|left|200px|link="http://www.usatrains.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>USA Trains by Charles Ro:</b> <br />
<br> "Largest selection of G-Scale rolling stock in the world; custom billroard reefers."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:WoodlandScenics Logo.png|left|200px|link="http://woodlandscenics.com/show/category/GScaleFigures"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td><br />
<b>Woodland Scenics Figures:</b> <br />
<br> "Bring your layout to life with G-Scale figures and accents with authentic detail."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="XXX" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>XXX:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
<br />
</table><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
===MORE LINKS ARE COMING SOON (PLEASE BE PATIENT): <br>===<br />
Airwire<br> <br />
AMS <br><br />
Argyle Locomotive Works<br><br />
Banta<br> <br />
BridgeWerks<br> <br />
Bridge Masters<br> <br />
Cedarleaf Custom Decals<br> <br />
Cheddar Models Ltd.<br> <br />
Colorado Model Structures<br> <br />
Crest Electronics<br> <br />
Eagle Wings Iron Craft <br><br />
Hillman Rail Clamps<br> <br />
Korber Models<br> <br />
Lionel<br> <br />
Llagas Creek Track <br> <br />
Marklin <br><br />
Ozark Miniatures <!-- ozark-miniatures-logo.png --><br> <br />
Pacific Coast Garden Railway Supply<br> <br />
Phoenix Sound<br> <br />
Pola<br> <br />
Preiser<br> <br />
QSI Solutions<br> <br />
Regner <!--Steam tractors among other things--><br> <br />
Rio Grande Models UK<br> <br />
Roundhouse <!--http://www.roundhouse-eng.com/ manufacturers of live steam locomotives for 'G' Scale since 1982--> <br><br />
Shortline car & foundry <br><br />
Somethin' Diffrent<br> <br />
Stoneworks <!--a resource for G-scale windows & doors, quarried stone, ballast, hand split slate, "how to" information and plans. http://www.rrstoneworks.com/--><br> <br />
Switchcrafters<br> <br />
Rainbow Ridge Kits<br> <br />
Somethin' Diffrent<br></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Garden_Railway_Manufacturers_ListGarden Railway Manufacturers List2017-04-10T23:03:56Z<p>Marcus Wolf: added logos and links</p>
<hr />
<div>G-SCALE MODEL RAIL ROAD SUPPLIES<br />
<br />
<br />
The REGRS Handy List for Large Scale Garden Railroad Hobbyists<br />
<br />
The following manufacturers are the backbone of the model railroading hobby. The locomotives and rolling stock for passenger and freight trains that you see on a garden railroad layout -- including all of the trackside buildings for farms, towns, and industries; railroad depot and passenger accessories; remote control and automation engineering; realistic sound and light systems; figures of people of varied eras and occupations; diecast automobiles, trucks, and motorcycles; finely painted domestic and wild animal figurines; bridges, trestles, and tunnel portals; and a myriad of other "dollhouse style" details such as cargo loads, steamer trunks and suitcases, street lights, wrought iron fencing, park and garden benches, billboards and signs, trash cans, miniature potted plants, garage and wood shop equipment, and tiny workmens' tools -- were either crafted by individual railroad modelers themselves or they were made by one of these great manufacturers of hobby railroad equipment. They may be supplied in the form of full-painted and ready-to-install pieces or they may be provided in raw metal, wood, resin, plastic, or ceramics, for the individual hobby modeler to finish. Some of these manufactuurers also supply small railroad quipment parts, such as switch stands, grab-bars, wheels, hatches, doors, and couplers, for those who are into kit-bashing.<br />
If you are new to Garden Railroading, please note that many of these model railroad manufacturers also produce items in other popular scales, so when viewing a model railroad manufacturer's web site, or inquiring about products that are for sale to the public always specify "G-Scale," "Large Scale" or a specific numerical scale -- such as 1:32, 1:29, 1:24, 1:22.5, or 1:20.3 -- in order to get the products that look best on your layout.<br />
<br />
The manufacturers listed on this page range in size from large corporations that primarily sell through dealerships at hobby and model train stores and shows to dedicated home hobbyists who hand-craft high-quality items in short runs or on an as-needed basis for individual customers or for sale at model train shows. What all of the manufacturers listed have in common is that they all work in Large Scale and they all have web sites. (Sorry; we do not list manufacturers who do not have web sites. Also note that this list of G-Scale railroad manufacturers is not a list ]of train, craft, hobby, or follhouse stores, online or on the street.)<br />
<br />
If you click on a manufacturer or supplier's logo, a new page will open that takes you to that company's web site. Again, when you get to one of these sites, please be aware that model railroading comes in many scales and sizes, so if a manufacturer offers more than one scale or size, be sure to click on the site's link that says "G-Scale" or "Large-Scale" to see what they offer in the way of Garden Railway supplies.<br />
<br />
<p><br />
<br><br clear=all><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="8" border="1"><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<br />
[[File:Accucraft-logo.gif|center|link="http://www.accucraft.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Accucraft Trains:</b> <br />
<br> "Museum quality brass electric and live steam locomotives and detailed rolling stock"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<br />
<br />
<!--<br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Aster-Hobby-logo.gif]]<a title="airwire" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="airwire" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Airwire:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="AMS" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>AMS:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Argyle Locomotive Works" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Argyle Locomotive Works:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
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[[File:Aster-Hobby-logo.gif|left|200px|link="http://www.asterhobbyusa.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Aster Hobby USA:</b> <br />
<br> "Exclusive importer and distributor for Aster Live Steam locomotives and accessories."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Bachmann bros logo.png|left|200px|link="http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewCat&amp;catId=50"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Bachmann Trains:</b> <br />
<br> "Locomotives, rolling stock, and more; the perfect introduction to large scale model railroading."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<br />
<!--<br />
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<a title="Banta Models" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Banta Models:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
--><br />
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<a title="Brudge Werks" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Bridge Werks:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
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<a title="Bridge Masters" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Bridge Masters:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
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<a title="Cedarleaf Custom Decals" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Cedarleaf Custom Decals:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
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<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Cheddar Models Ltd." href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Cheddar Models Ltd.:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
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<a title="Colorado Model Structures" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Colorado Model Structures:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
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<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
<a title="Crest Electronics href= "http://www.crest-electronics.net" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Crest Electronics:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
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<a title="Eagle Wings Iron Craft" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Eagle Wings Iron Craft:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
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<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Gold logo web.gif|center|link="http://www.h-l-w.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Hartland Locomotive Works:</b> <br />
<br> "American made, high-quality, affordable G-Scale locomotives, rolling stock, and track."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Kadeelogo.jpg|left|200px|link="http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/Gplc.htm"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Kadee, The Coupler People:</b> <br />
<br>"Large-Scale couplers and gear boxes, reote control uncuplers. decals, metal wheels."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Logo LRP brown20998.jpg|left|200px|link="http://lightrailproducts.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Light Rail Products:</b> <br />
<br> "G-scale interurbans and streetcars, also known as trolleys or light rail vehicles."<br />
</td> <br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Phils-Narrow-Gauge-Logo.gif|left|200px|link="http://www.philsnarrowgauge.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Phil's Narrow Gauge:</b> <br />
<br> "Brass switch stands, fine cast metal accessories, custom rolling stock in 1:20.3 scale."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:PAM Logo.jpg|left|200px|link="http://www.piko-america.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Piko America:</b> <br />
<br> "400 affordable, German-made, G-Scale locomotives, cars, track, accessories, and buildings"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Mth 1gauge logo.jpg|left|200px|link="http://www.railking1gauge.com/default.asp"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Rail King One-Gauge by MTH Electric Trains:</b> <br />
<br> "1:32 scale (G Gauge) American-prototype garden railway models."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Split-Jaw-Logo.jpg|center|link="http://www.railclamp.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Split Jaw Products:</b> <br />
<br> "Rail clamps, roadbed, railbed, electronics, and E-Z Loaders."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Train-Li logo.gif|left|200px|link="http://train-li-usa.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>Train-Li USA:</b> <br />
<br> "Rolling stock, engines, track, switches, accessories, sound, repair service, parts."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:Usalogot.gif|left|200px|link="http://www.usatrains.com/"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>USA Trains by Charles Ro:</b> <br />
<br> "Largest selection of G-Scale rolling stock in the world; custom billroard reefers."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr><br />
<td valign="center" align="center"><br />
[[File:WoodlandScenics Logo.png|left|200px|link="http://woodlandscenics.com/show/category/GScaleFigures"]]<br />
</td><br />
<td><br />
<b>Woodland Scenics Figures:</b> <br />
<br> "Bring your layout to life with G-Scale figures and accents with authentic detail."<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
<br />
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<a title="XXX" href="http://www.xxx.com/" target="_blank"><br />
<img border="0" width="110" alt="AMS" <br />
src="http://regrs.org/xxx.jpg"></a> <br />
</td><br />
<td> <br />
<b>XXX:</b> <br />
<br> "XXX Descriptive text"<br />
</td><br />
</tr><br />
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</table></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Phils-Narrow-Gauge-Logo.gifFile:Phils-Narrow-Gauge-Logo.gif2017-04-10T23:03:12Z<p>Marcus Wolf: Marcus Wolf uploaded a new version of &quot;File:Phils-Narrow-Gauge-Logo.gif&quot;</p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Phils-Narrow-Gauge-Logo.gifFile:Phils-Narrow-Gauge-Logo.gif2017-04-10T23:01:08Z<p>Marcus Wolf: Marcus Wolf uploaded a new version of &quot;File:Phils-Narrow-Gauge-Logo.gif&quot;</p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:WoodlandScenics_Logo.pngFile:WoodlandScenics Logo.png2017-04-10T20:52:40Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Usalogot.gifFile:Usalogot.gif2017-04-10T20:52:23Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Train-Li_logo.gifFile:Train-Li logo.gif2017-04-10T20:52:05Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Split-Jaw-Logo.jpgFile:Split-Jaw-Logo.jpg2017-04-10T20:51:43Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Mth_1gauge_logo.jpgFile:Mth 1gauge logo.jpg2017-04-10T20:51:24Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:PAM_Logo.jpgFile:PAM Logo.jpg2017-04-10T20:51:04Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Phils-Narrow-Gauge-Logo.gifFile:Phils-Narrow-Gauge-Logo.gif2017-04-10T20:50:40Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Logo_LRP_brown20998.jpgFile:Logo LRP brown20998.jpg2017-04-10T20:50:17Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Kadeelogo.jpgFile:Kadeelogo.jpg2017-04-10T20:49:54Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Gold_logo_web.gifFile:Gold logo web.gif2017-04-10T20:49:33Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Bachmann_bros_logo.pngFile:Bachmann bros logo.png2017-04-10T20:49:08Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Aster-Hobby-logo.gifFile:Aster-Hobby-logo.gif2017-04-10T20:48:45Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Accucraft-logo.gifFile:Accucraft-logo.gif2017-04-10T20:48:15Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Garden_Railway_PhotographyGarden Railway Photography2017-04-10T20:36:10Z<p>Marcus Wolf: added observatory car photo</p>
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<div>__NOTOC__<br />
<br />
=PRESERVATION AND DOCUMENTATION OF GARDEN RAILROADS <p>by catherine yronwode=<br />
<br />
[[File:Farm-Family-in-Bakersfield-06-14-14.jpg|left|thumb|400px|This hand-made building by Jeff Roaten will naturally age and weather if it remains on the garden railway layout -- just like the prototype upon which it was based.]]<br />
<br />
==WHY YOU SHOULD PHOTOGRAPH YOUR LAYOUT==<br />
<br />
First, a thank-you to John Reid for writing an article on how he has built static dioramas of historical mechanical and railway subjects with the objective of getting them into museums where the public will enjoy them. His clear-headed and upbeat approach to the question of whether modelling is an art form and how to get museums to recognize it as such led me to consider how we preserve our garden railways for future generations, either as art we have built from scratch or as a sort of visual montage or mise-en-scene we have composited from the work of others, both mass-produced and commissioned for our layouts.<br />
<br />
John had a goal, namely to get his dioramas into museums. Next, he had great modelling skills and dedication to his task, and he figured out how to overcome his fear of rejection. He modified his work methods and his subject matter to make accomplishing the goal more likely. He used both old and new technologies (including the internet) to assist in making many people aware of his skills and talents and to further his objective.<br />
<br />
Unlike John's models, most garden railways are destroyed or broken up when their creators pass away. If surviving heirs have any sense, the locomotives, rolling stock, buildings, and accessories may get donated to the local model railway society or sold online to others who need or want them rather than hauled off to the dump. However, no matter what happens, very few garden railways survive to the second or third generation. This can be seen as a sad end to a beautiful project, as the inevitable rejection of hobby modeling by society at large -- or as a challenge to all garden model-makers: How can our works be preserved?<br />
<br />
The biggest problem in comparing John Reid's goal of donating his dine dioramas to a museum versus our members' goals preserving a garden railway layout is the matter of weather and entropy. Garden railways do decay. Unless an individual, a family, or a club take on their maintenance, they will rot and rust away, just as will any historic building or locomotive. Few museums have enough roofed space to cover a G-Scale layout. The issue of museum donation thus primarily applies to dioramas and indoor layouts, i believe<br />
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I have been in small county museums that do include HO or O scale layouts of historical (local, regional, or thematic) interest -- with or without running trains. Some of the exhibits consist primarily of models of local landmark buildings and it is noted that they were originally built for use on a model train layout -- but only the buildings are shown, or the trains are static while on display.<br />
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As John and others have also mentioned, there is a line to be drawn between model-building and buying a whole lot of what most museum directors would perceive to be "mixed media children's toys."<br />
<br />
==BUT IS IT ART?==<br />
<br />
We need to be honest with ourselves.<br />
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Is my cute garden layout, featuring Bachmann Annies and Danbury Mint die cast trucks and a whole lot of amazing scratch-built structures really "museum quality"?<br />
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Certainly it photographs well now ... but after ten years in nature, will even the best and most hand-made parts of it still be "museum quality"?<br />
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And are there actually museums that care about gardens?<br />
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The answer to these questions is "mostly no and probably not."<br />
<br />
Garden art is perishable. It always has been -- from Hadrian's Villa to your Uncle Bob's Petunia Patch. But here's an unexpected aspect worth considering: Even though people do not all agree that a garden railroad is art -- and most institutions lack the resources to conserve any form of garden, much less one with a functional train running though it -- they do agree that photography is art. Your photos will remain to tell the tale of your interests, skills, and hard work. So take as many as you can! Those are your heritage.<br />
<br />
==WHEN ONLY THE MEMORY REMAINS==<br />
<br />
[[File:Observatory Car 1997 009 02.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Entirely hand-crafted by metal sculptor Bruce Hebron, this whimsical little AWNUTS Observatory Car featuring a rotating dome is a highly collectible -- and artistic -- piece of rolling stock.]]<br />
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Now let's talk about the decentralization of image-banking. In these modern times, we no longer need to rely on top-down academic or philanthropic institutions to preserve and display our art. We can be our own museums!<br />
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First, get the best camera you can afford, even if it is just a smart phone.<br />
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Second, film both stills and videos.<br />
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Third, include descriptions of what is in the pictures when you post them online.<br />
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Now to address a point about the impermanence of internet text and photo archives, both hobby-oriented and general in scope. Our hobby is not alone in having had to deal with the disappearance of some of the most popular of such sites, and the subsequent loss of their archives. When forums and hosting sites go down without being sold, their many accumulated archives of text and photos are often lost, despite the archival of partial "snap-shots" at sites llike the Wayback Machine.<br />
<br />
Will your model railroad web archives disappear? Only if you and your heirs don't own them. Do not rely on free or low-cost services to store and display your photos. Including this one. They do go away -- and when they do, your archive goes away with them. <br />
<br />
Instead, buy a web domain and upload your material there. Pay for ten years of registration renewal and web hosting. Post the site's registration and hosting information, expiration date, login, and password on a note where your heirs can find it. Put aside money in a bank account to pay for the next ten years -- or more -- of registration and hosting after your demise.<br />
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* Make it known to your heirs that you wish your site to remain online and that if they cannot pay the upkeep, you would like them to contact people from a list of folks who may be able to take on the very small financial cost of re-registration and hosting out of love for the hobby.<br />
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* Make it also known to your friends and model railway club(s) that you wish your site to remain online, and send each of them the entire contents of the site on a thumb drive or CD so that it can be re-uploaded if it goes down due to negligence on the part of your heirs. Make MULTIPLE copies and put the names and contact information for each person in the list that you send to all.<br />
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* You can, if you wish, WILL your domain contents to a non-profit club like the Redwood Empire Garden Railway Society. Since we are already hosting this domain, we can work with you or your heirs to add the content of you site to ours, at no cost, in order to preserve it. Your domain name wil expire, but the content of the site will remain hosted as long as the REGRS site exists.<br />
<br />
As a wise friend once told me, back in the 1990s, "Web pages truly resemble the miracle of the loaves and the fishes in the Bible. They can be created by simply breaking a metaphorical "piece" off of the existing "loaf" of the domain name, and each piece can be subdivided further, until, from one web page, the home or index page of the domain you can create ten -- or ten thousand -- new pages, each one filled with information and photographs." <br />
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We may not be able to preserve a large garden layout against entropic damage by donating it to a museum, but when it comes to the art of photography, WE ARE EACH OUR OWN MUSEUMS in this brave new world of the internet.<br />
<br />
A word to the wise is sufficient, i hope.<br />
<br />
cat yronwode<br><br />
East Tennessee and Western Northern California RR<br><br />
"The Shortest Route Between Johnson City and Forestville"</div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Observatory_Car_1997_009_02.jpgFile:Observatory Car 1997 009 02.jpg2017-04-10T20:35:28Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Kits_and_Scratch_Built_StructuresKits and Scratch Built Structures2017-04-10T20:31:14Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
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<div>__NOTOC__<br />
==HOW WE PUT BUILDINGS ON OUR GARDEN RAILROAD LAYOUTS==<br />
<br />
Putting buildings on your garden railway can be as simple as purchasing them ready-made, buying kits to assemble, or scratch-building them. Most layouts contain a combination of all three of these types of structures, plus others that are "kit-bashed" or commissioned as yard-art from a scratch-builder who does such work for a living.<br />
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Here are the terms we use to describe our buildings:<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==READY MADE AND BUILT-UP STRUCTURES==<br />
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[[File:Aristo-Craft-farm-building-built-up.jpg|left|thumb|300px|A popular style of American farmhouse made by the Aristo Craft company and available in the form of a built-up and ready-made building shipped in a box. Photo by Aristo Craft.]]<br />
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Ready Made and Built-Up structures come complete -- no assembly or painting required! They may be made of wood, plastic, sheet metal, or other durable materials suitable for use in the garden. Some are made of UV-resistant materials for long-term use; others can be coated with UV-resistant paint or spray. You can find these buildings online through hobby shops and crafts stores, at yard-sales, or at online auction sites. A variety of architectural styles and eras are available. To install them, you may wish to provide a base or interior lighting, but these are not always necessary.<br />
<br />
By the way, the terms "ready-made" and "built-up" are not quite synonymous: Ready made structures are ready to install, but built-up structures can also refer to kits than someone else assembled -- they are ready-made as far as you are concerned, but someone built them for you.<br />
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==KIT-BUILT STRUCTURES==<br />
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[[File:Piko-america-kit-buildings.jpg|right|thumb|300px|A pair of typical small-town American mercantile buildings, constructed from pre-coloured UV-resistant plastic kits. [Photo by Piko-America.]]<br />
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<br />
Building structures from kits -- usually either plastic or laser-cut wood -- is a beloved part of railroad modelling for many people. The pieces are all contained in a box and by following the illustrated instructions, you can assemble the kit in anywhere from an hour to a day, depending on the complexity of the model amd your own skill level and previous experience.<br />
<br />
One of the best things about kits is that the parts are guaranteed to fit together perfectly and, in the case of plastic kits, the material is both pre-coloured and UV-resistant, so you don't have to paint it. One drawback to kit buildings is that the plastic ones do tend to look very "plasticy" until they have sat out on the layout over the summer, although they can be weathered with paints to tone them down, if you prefer. Another drawback to kit-buildings is that they are so common -- certain buildings appear on many layouts, ad although they are pretty good-looking, there is a certain "factory made" feeling to seeing them over and over again. <br />
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==KIT-BASHED STRUCTURES==<br />
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[[File:Pola-tunnel-portal-box.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The box that contained a Pola tunnel portal; however, in order to install it on the layout, its abutments had to be extended and altered. Photo by Pola.]]<br />
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Kit-Bashing is the time-honoured way to take advantage of hobby kits and factory-assembled structures, but to assemble them your own way, so that your structures do not look like everyone else's. You can kit-Bash tiny details like door frames, porches, and chimneys, or mix-and-match portions of two or three kits to design an all-new and different building. With kit-bashing, you can create structures that no longer look like they came straight from the factory.<br />
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[[File:Pola-tunnel-portal-installed small.jpg|right|thumb|300px|The altered and installed Pola tunnel after kit-bashing and weathering. Photo by catherine yronwode.]]<br />
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Kit-Bashing is also popular on the trains themselves, as model-makers hand-craft, cut down, modify, or redecorate standard factory-built locomotives and rolling stock to suit their individual preferences. Kit bashing on G-scale trains can involve simple changes, like replacing one type of coupler with another, or very complex operations, like cutting apart and reassembling a caboose to make it look like a historical prototype for which no kit or factory-assembled G-scale caboose exists. <br />
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==SCRATCH-BUILT STRUCTURES==<br />
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[[File:Locomotive-white-house-cattle.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The scratch-built wooden farmhouse in this layout was purchased online from the maker, Jeff Roatan, who lives in Mississippi. Photo by catherine yronwode.]]<br />
<br />
Building your own miniature railroad depots, water tanks, homes, barns, and industries from scratch is one of the most absorbing areas of this hobby, especially for those who have an interest in wood-working or metal-craft. When a building is made by an individual from lumber, sheet metal, stone, or stucco, it is called scratch-built -- and the good news is that you do not need to be an expert model-maker to have scratch-built structures on your garden railroad layout. There are many people in the hobby who scratch-build structures for sale via web sites or online auctions, in styles ranging from folksy and whimsical to exactingly authentic copies of famous prototype buildings.<br />
<br />
Many scratch-builders will make modifications to their standard offerings if you contact them and ask. Scratch- builders also trade buildings with one another, as part of the friendly interaction that grows out of particpation in a hobby club.<br />
<br />
For those who have no talent, skills, or time to scratch-build, but like the look, commissioning scratch-built structures from a professional is a form of arts patronage. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==COMBINING SCRATCH-BUILT WITH PLASTIC KIT BUILDINGS==<br />
<br />
[[File:Scratchbuilt-redwood-and-plastic-kit-buildings.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Scratch-built wooden buildings by Daniel Smith and Jeff Roaten combine in a landscape with plastic kit-built structures by Pola, Piko, and Korber Models. Can you tell which is which? Photo by Becky Herzog.]]<br />
<br />
When it comes to building your railroad layout, the choices are yours. Many people opt for the "best of both" approach, utilizing plastic kits kits to emulate brick, stucco, and stone buildings, and enjoying the artisanship of custom-built wooden structures to give the layout a unique, one-of-a-kind look. For those who enjoy architecture as much as railroading, this appraoch allows for the best of both worlds -- fabulously esigned and virtually weatherpoof plastic structures, and buildings modelled after specific prototypes or regional styles, to bring a touch of personal art to the landscape.</div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Kits_and_Scratch_Built_StructuresKits and Scratch Built Structures2017-04-10T20:30:21Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
==HOW WE PUT BUILDINGS ON OUR GARDEN RAILROAD LAYOUTS==<br />
<br />
Putting buildings on your garden railway can be as simple as purchasing them ready-made, buying kits to assemble, or scratch-building them. Most layouts contain a combination of all three of these types of structures, plus others that are "kit-bashed" or commissioned as yard-art from a scratch-builder who does such work for a living.<br />
<br />
Here are the terms we use to describe our buildings:<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==READY MADE AND BUILT-UP STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Aristo-Craft-farm-building-built-up.jpg|left|thumb|300px|A popular style of American farmhouse made by the Aristo Craft company and available in the form of a built-up and ready-made building shipped in a box. Photo by Aristo Craft.]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Ready Made and Built-Up structures come complete -- no assembly or painting required! They may be made of wood, plastic, sheet metal, or other durable materials suitable for use in the garden. Some are made of UV-resistant materials for long-term use; others can be coated with UV-resistant paint or spray. You can find these buildings online through hobby shops and crafts stores, at yard-sales, or at online auction sites. A variety of architectural styles and eras are available. To install them, you may wish to provide a base or interior lighting, but these are not always necessary.<br />
<br />
By the way, the terms "ready-made" and "built-up" are not quite synonymous: Ready made structures are ready to install, but built-up structures can also refer to kits than someone else assembled -- they are ready-made as far as you are concerned, but someone built them for you.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==KIT-BUILT STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
[[File:Piko-america-kit-buildings.jpg|right|thumb|300px|A pair of typical small-town American mercantile buildings, constructed from pre-coloured UV-resistant plastic kits. [Photo by Piko-America.]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Building structures from kits -- usually either plastic or laser-cut wood -- is a beloved part of railroad modelling for many people. The pieces are all contained in a box and by following the illustrated instructions, you can assemble the kit in anywhere from an hour to a day, depending on the complexity of the model amd your own skill level and previous experience.<br />
<br />
One of the best things about kits is that the parts are guaranteed to fit together perfectly and, in the case of plastic kits, the material is both pre-coloured and UV-resistant, so you don't have to paint it. One drawback to kit buildings is that the plastic ones do tend to look very "plasticy" until they have sat out on the layout over the summer, although they can be weathered with paints to tone them down, if you prefer. Another drawback to kit-buildings is that they are so common -- certain buildings appear on many layouts, ad although they are pretty good-looking, there is a certain "factory made" feeling to seeing them over and over again. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==KIT-BASHED STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
[[File:Pola-tunnel-portal-box.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The box that contained a Pola tunnel portal; however, in order to install it on the layout, its abutments had to be extended and altered. Photo by Pola.]]<br />
<br />
Kit-Bashing is the time-honoured way to take advantage of hobby kits and factory-assembled structures, but to assemble them your own way, so that your structures do not look like everyone else's. You can kit-Bash tiny details like door frames, porches, and chimneys, or mix-and-match portions of two or three kits to design an all-new and different building. With kit-bashing, you can create structures that no longer look like they came straight from the factory.<br />
<br />
[[File:Pola-tunnel-portal-installed small.jpg|right|thumb|300px|The altered and installed Pola tunnel after kit-bashing and weathering. Photo by catherine yronwode.]]<br />
<br />
Kit-Bashing is also popular on the trains themselves, as model-makers hand-craft, cut down, modify, or redecorate standard factory-built locomotives and rolling stock to suit their individual preferences. Kit bashing on G-scale trains can involve simple changes, like replacing one type of coupler with another, or very complex operations, like cutting apart and reassembling a caboose to make it look like a historical prototype for which no kit or factory-assembled G-scale caboose exists. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==SCRATCH-BUILT STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
[[File:Locomotive-white-house-cattle.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The scratch-built wooden farmhouse in this layout was purchased online from the maker, Jeff Roatan, who lives in Mississippi. Photo by catherine yronwode.]]<br />
<br />
Building your own miniature railroad depots, water tanks, homes, barns, and industries from scratch is one of the most absorbing areas of this hobby, especially for those who have an interest in wood-working or metal-craft. When a building is made by an individual from lumber, sheet metal, stone, or stucco, it is called scratch-built -- and the good news is that you do not need to be an expert model-maker to have scratch-built structures on your garden railroad layout. There are many people in the hobby who scratch-build structures for sale via web sites or online auctions, in styles ranging from folksy and whimsical to exactingly authentic copies of famous prototype buildings.<br />
<br />
Many scratch-builders will make modifications to their standard offerings if you contact them and ask. Scratch- builders also trade buildings with one another, as part of the friendly interaction that grows out of particpation in a hobby club.<br />
<br />
For those who have no talent, skills, or time to scratch-build, but like the look, commissioning scratch-built structures from a professional is a form of arts patronage. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==COMBINING SCRATCH-BUILT WITH PLASTIC KIT BUILDINGS==<br />
<br />
[[File:Scratchbuilt-redwood-and-plastic-kit-buildings.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Scratch-built wooden buildings by Daniel Smith and Jeff Roaten combine in a landscape with plastic kit-built structures by Pola, Piko, and Korber Models. Can you tell which is which? Photo by Becky Herzog.]]<br />
<br />
When it comes to building your railroad layout, the choices are yours. Many people opt for the "best of both" approach, utilizing plastic kits kits to emulate brick, stucco, and stone buildings, and enjoying the artisanship of custom-built wooden structures to give the layout a unique, one-of-a-kind look. For those who enjoy architecture as much as railroading, this appraoch allows for the best of both worlds -- fabulously esigned and virtually weatherpoof plastic structures, and buildings modelled after specific prototypes or regional styles, to bring a touch of personal art to the landscape.</div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Kits_and_Scratch_Built_StructuresKits and Scratch Built Structures2017-04-10T20:27:16Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
==HOW WE PUT BUILDINGS ON OUR GARDEN RAILROAD LAYOUTS==<br />
<br />
Putting buildings on your garden railway can be as simple as purchasing them ready-made, buying kits to assemble, or scratch-building them. Most layouts contain a combination of all three of these types of structures, plus others that are "kit-bashed" or commissioned as yard-art from a scratch-builder who does such work for a living.<br />
<br />
Here are the terms we use to describe our buildings:<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==READY MADE AND BUILT-UP STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Aristo-Craft-farm-building-built-up.jpg|left|thumb|300px|A popular style of American farmhouse made by the Aristo Craft company and available in the form of a built-up and ready-made building shipped in a box. Photo by Aristo Craft.]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Ready Made and Built-Up structures come complete -- no assembly or painting required! They may be made of wood, plastic, sheet metal, or other durable materials suitable for use in the garden. Some are made of UV-resistant materials for long-term use; others can be coated with UV-resistant paint or spray. You can find these buildings online through hobby shops and crafts stores, at yard-sales, or at online auction sites. A variety of architectural styles and eras are available. To install them, you may wish to provide a base or interior lighting, but these are not always necessary.<br />
<br />
By the way, the terms "ready-made" and "built-up" are not quite synonymous: Ready made structures are ready to install, but built-up structures can also refer to kits than someone else assembled -- they are ready-made as far as you are concerned, but someone built them for you.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==KIT-BUILT STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
[[File:Piko-america-kit-buildings.jpg|right|thumb|300px|A pair of typical small-town American mercantile buildings, constructed from pre-coloured UV-resistant plastic kits. [Photo by Piko-America.]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Building structures from kits -- usually either plastic or laser-cut wood -- is a beloved part of railroad modelling for many people. The pieces are all contained in a box and by following the illustrated instructions, you can assemble the kit in anywhere from an hour to a day, depending on the complexity of the model amd your own skill level and previous experience.<br />
<br />
One of the best things about kits is that the parts are guaranteed to fit together perfectly and, in the case of plastic kits, the material is both pre-coloured and UV-resistant, so you don't have to paint it. One drawback to kit buildings is that the plastic ones do tend to look very "plasticy" until they have sat out on the layout over the summer, although they can be weathered with paints to tone them down, if you prefer. Another drawback to kit-buildings is that they are so common -- certain buildings appear on many layouts, ad although they are pretty good-looking, there is a certain "factory made" feeling to seeing them over and over again. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==KIT-BASHED STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
[[File:Pola-tunnel-portal-box.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The box that contained a Pola tunnel portal; however, in order to install it on the layout, its abutments had to be extended and altered. Photo by Pola.]]<br />
<br />
Kit-Bashing is the time-honoured way to take advantage of hobby kits and factory-assembled structures, but to assemble them your own way, so that your structures do not look like everyone else's. You can kit-Bash tiny details like door frames, porches, and chimneys, or mix-and-match portions of two or three kits to design an all-new and different building. With kit-bashing, you can create structures that no longer look like they came straight from the factory.<br />
<br />
[[File:Pola-tunnel-portal-installed small.jpg|right|thumb|300px|At right is the altered and installed Pola tunnel after kit-bashing and weathering. Photo by catherine yronwode.]]<br />
<br />
Kit-Bashing is also popular on the trains themselves, as model-makers hand-craft, cut down, modify, or redecorate standard factory-built locomotives and rolling stock to suit their individual preferences. Kit bashing on G-scale trains can involve simple changes, like replacing one type of coupler with another, or very complex operations, like cutting apart and reassembling a caboose to make it look like a historical prototype for which no kit or factory-assembled G-scale caboose exists. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==SCRATCH-BUILT STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
[[File:Locomotive-white-house-cattle.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The scratch-built wooden farmhouse in this layout was purchased online from the maker, Jeff Roatan, who lives in Mississippi. Photo by catherine yronwode.]]<br />
<br />
Building your own miniature railroad depots, water tanks, homes, barns, and industries from scratch is one of the most absorbing areas of this hobby, especially for those who have an interest in wood-working or metal-craft. When a building is made by an individual from lumber, sheet metal, stone, or stucco, it is called scratch-built -- and the good news is that you do not need to be an expert model-maker to have scratch-built structures on your garden railroad layout. There are many people in the hobby who scratch-build structures for sale via web sites or online auctions, in styles ranging from folksy and whimsical to exactingly authentic copies of famous prototype buildings.<br />
<br />
Many scratch-builders will make modifications to their standard offerings if you contact them and ask. Scratch- builders also trade buildings with one another, as part of the friendly interaction that grows out of particpation in a hobby club.<br />
<br />
For those who have no talent, skills, or time to scratch-build, but like the look, commissioning scratch-built structures from a professional is a form of arts patronage. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==COMBINING SCRATCH-BUILT WITH PLASTIC KIT BUILDINGS==<br />
<br />
[[File:Scratchbuilt-redwood-and-plastic-kit-buildings.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Scratch-built wooden buildings by Daniel Smith and Jeff Roaten combine in a landscape with plastic kit-built structures by Pola, Piko, and Korber Models. Can you tell which is which? Photo by Becky Herzog.]]<br />
<br />
When it comes to building your railroad layout, the choices are yours. Many people opt for the "best of both" approach, utilizing plastic kits kits to emulate brick, stucco, and stone buildings, and enjoying the artisanship of custom-built wooden structures to give the layout a unique, one-of-a-kind look. For those who enjoy architecture as much as railroading, this appraoch allows for the best of both worlds -- fabulously esigned and virtually weatherpoof plastic structures, and buildings modelled after specific prototypes or regional styles, to bring a touch of personal art to the landscape.</div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Kits_and_Scratch_Built_StructuresKits and Scratch Built Structures2017-04-10T20:26:35Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
==HOW WE PUT BUILDINGS ON OUR GARDEN RAILROAD LAYOUTS==<br />
<br />
Putting buildings on your garden railway can be as simple as purchasing them ready-made, buying kits to assemble, or scratch-building them. Most layouts contain a combination of all three of these types of structures, plus others that are "kit-bashed" or commissioned as yard-art from a scratch-builder who does such work for a living.<br />
<br />
Here are the terms we use to describe our buildings:<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==READY MADE AND BUILT-UP STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Aristo-Craft-farm-building-built-up.jpg|left|thumb|300px|A popular style of American farmhouse made by the Aristo Craft company and available in the form of a built-up and ready-made building shipped in a box. Photo by Aristo Craft.]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Ready Made and Built-Up structures come complete -- no assembly or painting required! They may be made of wood, plastic, sheet metal, or other durable materials suitable for use in the garden. Some are made of UV-resistant materials for long-term use; others can be coated with UV-resistant paint or spray. You can find these buildings online through hobby shops and crafts stores, at yard-sales, or at online auction sites. A variety of architectural styles and eras are available. To install them, you may wish to provide a base or interior lighting, but these are not always necessary.<br />
<br />
By the way, the terms "ready-made" and "built-up" are not quite synonymous: Ready made structures are ready to install, but built-up structures can also refer to kits than someone else assembled -- they are ready-made as far as you are concerned, but someone built them for you.<br />
<br />
<p><br />
<br />
==KIT-BUILT STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
[[File:Piko-america-kit-buildings.jpg|right|thumb|300px|A pair of typical small-town American mercantile buildings, constructed from pre-coloured UV-resistant plastic kits. [Photo by Piko-America.]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Building structures from kits -- usually either plastic or laser-cut wood -- is a beloved part of railroad modelling for many people. The pieces are all contained in a box and by following the illustrated instructions, you can assemble the kit in anywhere from an hour to a day, depending on the complexity of the model amd your own skill level and previous experience.<br />
<br />
One of the best things about kits is that the parts are guaranteed to fit together perfectly and, in the case of plastic kits, the material is both pre-coloured and UV-resistant, so you don't have to paint it. One drawback to kit buildings is that the plastic ones do tend to look very "plasticy" until they have sat out on the layout over the summer, although they can be weathered with paints to tone them down, if you prefer. Another drawback to kit-buildings is that they are so common -- certain buildings appear on many layouts, ad although they are pretty good-looking, there is a certain "factory made" feeling to seeing them over and over again. <br />
<br />
<p><br />
<br />
==KIT-BASHED STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
[[File:Pola-tunnel-portal-box.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The box that contained a Pola tunnel portal; however, in order to install it on the layout, its abutments had to be extended and altered. Photo by Pola.]]<br />
<br />
Kit-Bashing is the time-honoured way to take advantage of hobby kits and factory-assembled structures, but to assemble them your own way, so that your structures do not look like everyone else's. You can kit-Bash tiny details like door frames, porches, and chimneys, or mix-and-match portions of two or three kits to design an all-new and different building. With kit-bashing, you can create structures that no longer look like they came straight from the factory.<br />
<br />
[[File:Pola-tunnel-portal-installed small.jpg|right|thumb|300px|At right is the altered and installed Pola tunnel after kit-bashing and weathering. Photo by catherine yronwode.]]<br />
<br />
Kit-Bashing is also popular on the trains themselves, as model-makers hand-craft, cut down, modify, or redecorate standard factory-built locomotives and rolling stock to suit their individual preferences. Kit bashing on G-scale trains can involve simple changes, like replacing one type of coupler with another, or very complex operations, like cutting apart and reassembling a caboose to make it look like a historical prototype for which no kit or factory-assembled G-scale caboose exists. <br />
<br />
<p><br />
<br />
==SCRATCH-BUILT STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
[[File:Locomotive-white-house-cattle.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The scratch-built wooden farmhouse in this layout was purchased online from the maker, Jeff Roatan, who lives in Mississippi. Photo by catherine yronwode.]]<br />
<br />
Building your own miniature railroad depots, water tanks, homes, barns, and industries from scratch is one of the most absorbing areas of this hobby, especially for those who have an interest in wood-working or metal-craft. When a building is made by an individual from lumber, sheet metal, stone, or stucco, it is called scratch-built -- and the good news is that you do not need to be an expert model-maker to have scratch-built structures on your garden railroad layout. There are many people in the hobby who scratch-build structures for sale via web sites or online auctions, in styles ranging from folksy and whimsical to exactingly authentic copies of famous prototype buildings.<br />
<br />
Many scratch-builders will make modifications to their standard offerings if you contact them and ask. Scratch- builders also trade buildings with one another, as part of the friendly interaction that grows out of particpation in a hobby club.<br />
<br />
For those who have no talent, skills, or time to scratch-build, but like the look, commissioning scratch-built structures from a professional is a form of arts patronage. <br />
<br />
<p><br />
<br />
==COMBINING SCRATCH-BUILT WITH PLASTIC KIT BUILDINGS==<br />
<br />
[[File:Scratchbuilt-redwood-and-plastic-kit-buildings.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Scratch-built wooden buildings by Daniel Smith and Jeff Roaten combine in a landscape with plastic kit-built structures by Pola, Piko, and Korber Models. Can you tell which is which? Photo by Becky Herzog.]]<br />
<br />
When it comes to building your railroad layout, the choices are yours. Many people opt for the "best of both" approach, utilizing plastic kits kits to emulate brick, stucco, and stone buildings, and enjoying the artisanship of custom-built wooden structures to give the layout a unique, one-of-a-kind look. For those who enjoy architecture as much as railroading, this appraoch allows for the best of both worlds -- fabulously esigned and virtually weatherpoof plastic structures, and buildings modelled after specific prototypes or regional styles, to bring a touch of personal art to the landscape.</div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Kits_and_Scratch_Built_StructuresKits and Scratch Built Structures2017-04-10T20:24:53Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
==HOW WE PUT BUILDINGS ON OUR GARDEN RAILROAD LAYOUTS==<br />
<br />
Putting buildings on your garden railway can be as simple as purchasing them ready-made, buying kits to assemble, or scratch-building them. Most layouts contain a combination of all three of these types of structures, plus others that are "kit-bashed" or commissioned as yard-art from a scratch-builder who does such work for a living.<br />
<br />
Here are the terms we use to describe our buildings:<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==READY MADE AND BUILT-UP STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Aristo-Craft-farm-building-built-up.jpg|left|thumb|400px|A popular style of American farmhouse made by the Aristo Craft company and available in the form of a built-up and ready-made building shipped in a box. Photo by Aristo Craft.]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Ready Made and Built-Up structures come complete -- no assembly or painting required! They may be made of wood, plastic, sheet metal, or other durable materials suitable for use in the garden. Some are made of UV-resistant materials for long-term use; others can be coated with UV-resistant paint or spray. You can find these buildings online through hobby shops and crafts stores, at yard-sales, or at online auction sites. A variety of architectural styles and eras are available. To install them, you may wish to provide a base or interior lighting, but these are not always necessary.<br />
<br />
By the way, the terms "ready-made" and "built-up" are not quite synonymous: Ready made structures are ready to install, but built-up structures can also refer to kits than someone else assembled -- they are ready-made as far as you are concerned, but someone built them for you.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==KIT-BUILT STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
[[File:Piko-america-kit-buildings.jpg|right|thumb|300px|A pair of typical small-town American mercantile buildings, constructed from pre-coloured UV-resistant plastic kits. [Photo by Piko-America.]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Building structures from kits -- usually either plastic or laser-cut wood -- is a beloved part of railroad modelling for many people. The pieces are all contained in a box and by following the illustrated instructions, you can assemble the kit in anywhere from an hour to a day, depending on the complexity of the model amd your own skill level and previous experience.<br />
<br />
One of the best things about kits is that the parts are guaranteed to fit together perfectly and, in the case of plastic kits, the material is both pre-coloured and UV-resistant, so you don't have to paint it. One drawback to kit buildings is that the plastic ones do tend to look very "plasticy" until they have sat out on the layout over the summer, although they can be weathered with paints to tone them down, if you prefer. Another drawback to kit-buildings is that they are so common -- certain buildings appear on many layouts, ad although they are pretty good-looking, there is a certain "factory made" feeling to seeing them over and over again. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==KIT-BASHED STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
[[File:Pola-tunnel-portal-box.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The box that contained a Pola tunnel portal; however, in order to install it on the layout, its abutments had to be extended and altered. Photo by Pola.]]<br />
<br />
Kit-Bashing is the time-honoured way to take advantage of hobby kits and factory-assembled structures, but to assemble them your own way, so that your structures do not look like everyone else's. You can kit-Bash tiny details like door frames, porches, and chimneys, or mix-and-match portions of two or three kits to design an all-new and different building. With kit-bashing, you can create structures that no longer look like they came straight from the factory.<br />
<br />
[[File:Pola-tunnel-portal-installed small.jpg|right|thumb|300px|At right is the altered and installed Pola tunnel after kit-bashing and weathering. Photo by catherine yronwode.]]<br />
<br />
Kit-Bashing is also popular on the trains themselves, as model-makers hand-craft, cut down, modify, or redecorate standard factory-built locomotives and rolling stock to suit their individual preferences. Kit bashing on G-scale trains can involve simple changes, like replacing one type of coupler with another, or very complex operations, like cutting apart and reassembling a caboose to make it look like a historical prototype for which no kit or factory-assembled G-scale caboose exists. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==SCRATCH-BUILT STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
[[File:Locomotive-white-house-cattle.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The scratch-built wooden farmhouse in this layout was purchased online from the maker, Jeff Roatan, who lives in Mississippi. Photo by catherine yronwode.]]<br />
<br />
Building your own miniature railroad depots, water tanks, homes, barns, and industries from scratch is one of the most absorbing areas of this hobby, especially for those who have an interest in wood-working or metal-craft. When a building is made by an individual from lumber, sheet metal, stone, or stucco, it is called scratch-built -- and the good news is that you do not need to be an expert model-maker to have scratch-built structures on your garden railroad layout. There are many people in the hobby who scratch-build structures for sale via web sites or online auctions, in styles ranging from folksy and whimsical to exactingly authentic copies of famous prototype buildings.<br />
<br />
Many scratch-builders will make modifications to their standard offerings if you contact them and ask. Scratch- builders also trade buildings with one another, as part of the friendly interaction that grows out of particpation in a hobby club.<br />
<br />
For those who have no talent, skills, or time to scratch-build, but like the look, commissioning scratch-built structures from a professional is a form of arts patronage. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==COMBINING SCRATCH-BUILT WITH PLASTIC KIT BUILDINGS==<br />
<br />
[[File:Scratchbuilt-redwood-and-plastic-kit-buildings.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Scratch-built wooden buildings by Daniel Smith and Jeff Roaten combine in a landscape with plastic kit-built structures by Pola, Piko, and Korber Models. Can you tell which is which? Photo by Becky Herzog.]]<br />
<br />
When it comes to building your railroad layout, the choices are yours. Many people opt for the "best of both" approach, utilizing plastic kits kits to emulate brick, stucco, and stone buildings, and enjoying the artisanship of custom-built wooden structures to give the layout a unique, one-of-a-kind look. For those who enjoy architecture as much as railroading, this appraoch allows for the best of both worlds -- fabulously esigned and virtually weatherpoof plastic structures, and buildings modelled after specific prototypes or regional styles, to bring a touch of personal art to the landscape.</div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Kits_and_Scratch_Built_StructuresKits and Scratch Built Structures2017-04-10T20:24:10Z<p>Marcus Wolf: added photos</p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
==HOW WE PUT BUILDINGS ON OUR GARDEN RAILROAD LAYOUTS==<br />
<br />
Putting buildings on your garden railway can be as simple as purchasing them ready-made, buying kits to assemble, or scratch-building them. Most layouts contain a combination of all three of these types of structures, plus others that are "kit-bashed" or commissioned as yard-art from a scratch-builder who does such work for a living.<br />
<br />
Here are the terms we use to describe our buildings:<br />
<br />
==READY MADE AND BUILT-UP STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Aristo-Craft-farm-building-built-up.jpg|left|thumb|400px|A popular style of American farmhouse made by the Aristo Craft company and available in the form of a built-up and ready-made building shipped in a box. Photo by Aristo Craft.]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Ready Made and Built-Up structures come complete -- no assembly or painting required! They may be made of wood, plastic, sheet metal, or other durable materials suitable for use in the garden. Some are made of UV-resistant materials for long-term use; others can be coated with UV-resistant paint or spray. You can find these buildings online through hobby shops and crafts stores, at yard-sales, or at online auction sites. A variety of architectural styles and eras are available. To install them, you may wish to provide a base or interior lighting, but these are not always necessary.<br />
<br />
By the way, the terms "ready-made" and "built-up" are not quite synonymous: Ready made structures are ready to install, but built-up structures can also refer to kits than someone else assembled -- they are ready-made as far as you are concerned, but someone built them for you.<br />
<br />
==KIT-BUILT STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
[[File:Piko-america-kit-buildings.jpg|right|thumb|300px|A pair of typical small-town American mercantile buildings, constructed from pre-coloured UV-resistant plastic kits. [Photo by Piko-America.]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Building structures from kits -- usually either plastic or laser-cut wood -- is a beloved part of railroad modelling for many people. The pieces are all contained in a box and by following the illustrated instructions, you can assemble the kit in anywhere from an hour to a day, depending on the complexity of the model amd your own skill level and previous experience.<br />
<br />
One of the best things about kits is that the parts are guaranteed to fit together perfectly and, in the case of plastic kits, the material is both pre-coloured and UV-resistant, so you don't have to paint it. One drawback to kit buildings is that the plastic ones do tend to look very "plasticy" until they have sat out on the layout over the summer, although they can be weathered with paints to tone them down, if you prefer. Another drawback to kit-buildings is that they are so common -- certain buildings appear on many layouts, ad although they are pretty good-looking, there is a certain "factory made" feeling to seeing them over and over again. <br />
<br />
==KIT-BASHED STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
[[File:Pola-tunnel-portal-box.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The box that contained a Pola tunnel portal; however, in order to install it on the layout, its abutments had to be extended and altered. Photo by Pola.]]<br />
<br />
Kit-Bashing is the time-honoured way to take advantage of hobby kits and factory-assembled structures, but to assemble them your own way, so that your structures do not look like everyone else's. You can kit-Bash tiny details like door frames, porches, and chimneys, or mix-and-match portions of two or three kits to design an all-new and different building. With kit-bashing, you can create structures that no longer look like they came straight from the factory.<br />
<br />
[[File:Pola-tunnel-portal-installed small.jpg|right|thumb|300px|At right is the altered and installed Pola tunnel after kit-bashing and weathering. Photo by catherine yronwode.]]<br />
<br />
Kit-Bashing is also popular on the trains themselves, as model-makers hand-craft, cut down, modify, or redecorate standard factory-built locomotives and rolling stock to suit their individual preferences. Kit bashing on G-scale trains can involve simple changes, like replacing one type of coupler with another, or very complex operations, like cutting apart and reassembling a caboose to make it look like a historical prototype for which no kit or factory-assembled G-scale caboose exists. <br />
<br />
==SCRATCH-BUILT STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
[[File:Locomotive-white-house-cattle.jpg|left|thumb|300px|The scratch-built wooden farmhouse in this layout was purchased online from the maker, Jeff Roatan, who lives in Mississippi. Photo by catherine yronwode.]]<br />
<br />
Building your own miniature railroad depots, water tanks, homes, barns, and industries from scratch is one of the most absorbing areas of this hobby, especially for those who have an interest in wood-working or metal-craft. When a building is made by an individual from lumber, sheet metal, stone, or stucco, it is called scratch-built -- and the good news is that you do not need to be an expert model-maker to have scratch-built structures on your garden railroad layout. There are many people in the hobby who scratch-build structures for sale via web sites or online auctions, in styles ranging from folksy and whimsical to exactingly authentic copies of famous prototype buildings.<br />
<br />
Many scratch-builders will make modifications to their standard offerings if you contact them and ask. Scratch- builders also trade buildings with one another, as part of the friendly interaction that grows out of particpation in a hobby club.<br />
<br />
For those who have no talent, skills, or time to scratch-build, but like the look, commissioning scratch-built structures from a professional is a form of arts patronage. <br />
<br />
==COMBINING SCRATCH-BUILT WITH PLASTIC KIT BUILDINGS==<br />
<br />
[[File:Scratchbuilt-redwood-and-plastic-kit-buildings.jpg|left|thumb|300px|Scratch-built wooden buildings by Daniel Smith and Jeff Roaten combine in a landscape with plastic kit-built structures by Pola, Piko, and Korber Models. Can you tell which is which? Photo by Becky Herzog.]]<br />
<br />
When it comes to building your railroad layout, the choices are yours. Many people opt for the "best of both" approach, utilizing plastic kits kits to emulate brick, stucco, and stone buildings, and enjoying the artisanship of custom-built wooden structures to give the layout a unique, one-of-a-kind look. For those who enjoy architecture as much as railroading, this appraoch allows for the best of both worlds -- fabulously esigned and virtually weatherpoof plastic structures, and buildings modelled after specific prototypes or regional styles, to bring a touch of personal art to the landscape.</div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Scratchbuilt-redwood-and-plastic-kit-buildings.jpgFile:Scratchbuilt-redwood-and-plastic-kit-buildings.jpg2017-04-10T20:21:53Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Locomotive-white-house-cattle.jpgFile:Locomotive-white-house-cattle.jpg2017-04-10T20:21:10Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Pola-tunnel-portal-installed_small.jpgFile:Pola-tunnel-portal-installed small.jpg2017-04-10T20:20:30Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Pola-tunnel-portal-box.jpgFile:Pola-tunnel-portal-box.jpg2017-04-10T20:16:27Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Piko-america-kit-buildings.jpgFile:Piko-america-kit-buildings.jpg2017-04-10T20:12:55Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Kits_and_Scratch_Built_StructuresKits and Scratch Built Structures2017-04-10T20:10:19Z<p>Marcus Wolf: /* READY MADE AND BUILT-UP STRUCTURES */</p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
==HOW WE PUT BUILDINGS ON OUR GARDEN RAILROAD LAYOUTS==<br />
<br />
Putting buildings on your garden railway can be as simple as purchasing them ready-made, buying kits to assemble, or scratch-building them. Most layouts contain a combination of all three of these types of structures, plus others that are "kit-bashed" or commissioned as yard-art from a scratch-builder who does such work for a living.<br />
<br />
Here are the terms we use to describe our buildings:<br />
<br />
==READY MADE AND BUILT-UP STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:Aristo-Craft-farm-building-built-up.jpg|left|thumb|400px|A popular style of American farmhouse made by the Aristo Craft company and available in the form of a built-up and ready-made building shipped in a box. Photo by Aristo Craft.]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Ready Made and Built-Up structures come complete -- no assembly or painting required! They may be made of wood, plastic, sheet metal, or other durable materials suitable for use in the garden. Some are made of UV-resistant materials for long-term use; others can be coated with UV-resistant paint or spray. You can find these buildings online through hobby shops and crafts stores, at yard-sales, or at online auction sites. A variety of architectural styles and eras are available. To install them, you may wish to provide a base or interior lighting, but these are not always necessary.<br />
<br />
By the way, the terms "ready-made" and "built-up" are not quite synonymous: Ready made structures are ready to install, but built-up structures can also refer to kits than someone else assembled -- they are ready-made as far as you are concerned, but someone built them for you.<br />
<br />
==KIT-BUILT STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
A pair of typical small-town American mercantile buildings, constructed from pre-coloured UV-resistant plastic kits. [Photo by Piko-America.]<br />
<br />
Building structures from kits -- usually either plastic or laser-cut wood -- is a beloved part of railroad modelling for many people. The pieces are all contained in a box and by following the illustrated instructions, you can assemble the kit in anywhere from an hour to a day, depending on the complexity of the model amd your own skill level and previous experience.<br />
<br />
One of the best things about kits is that the parts are guaranteed to fit together perfectly and, in the case of plastic kits, the material is both pre-coloured and UV-resistant, so you don't have to paint it. One drawback to kit buildings is that the plastic ones do tend to look very "plasticy" until they have sat out on the layout over the summer, although they can be weathered with paints to tone them down, if you prefer. Another drawback to kit-buildings is that they are so common -- certain buildings appear on many layouts, ad although they are pretty good-looking, there is a certain "factory made" feeling to seeing them over and over again. <br />
<br />
==KIT-BASHED STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
<br />
At left is the box that contained a Pola tunnel portal; however, in order to install it on the layout, its abutments had to be extended and altered. [Photo by Pola.]<br />
<br />
Kit-Bashing is the time-honoured way to take advantage of hobby kits and factory-assembled structures, but to assemble them your own way, so that your structures do not look like everyone else's. You can kit-Bash tiny details like door frames, porches, and chimneys, or mix-and-match portions of two or three kits to design an all-new and different building. With kit-bashing, you can create structures that no longer look like they came straight from the factory.<br />
<br />
At right is the altered and installed Pola tunnel after kit-bashing and weathering. [Photo by catherine yronwode.]<br />
<br />
Kit-Bashing is also popular on the trains themselves, as model-makers hand-craft, cut down, modify, or redecorate standard factory-built locomotives and rolling stock to suit their individual preferences. Kit bashing on G-scale trains can involve simple changes, like replacing one type of coupler with another, or very complex operations, like cutting apart and reassembling a caboose to make it look like a historical prototype for which no kit or factory-assembled G-scale caboose exists. <br />
<br />
==SCRATCH-BUILT STRUCTURES==<br />
<br />
The scratch-built wooden farmhouse in this layout was purchased online from the maker, Jeff Roatan, who lives in Mississippi. [Photo by catherine yronwode.]<br />
<br />
Building your own miniature railroad depots, water tanks, homes, barns, and industries from scratch is one of the most absorbing areas of this hobby, especially for those who have an interest in wood-working or metal-craft. When a building is made by an individual from lumber, sheet metal, stone, or stucco, it is called scratch-built -- and the good news is that you do not need to be an expert model-maker to have scratch-built structures on your garden railroad layout. There are many people in the hobby who scratch-build structures for sale via web sites or online auctions, in styles ranging from folksy and whimsical to exactingly authentic copies of famous prototype buildings.<br />
<br />
Many scratch-builders will make modifications to their standard offerings if you contact them and ask. Scratch- builders also trade buildings with one another, as part of the friendly interaction that grows out of particpation in a hobby club.<br />
<br />
For those who have no talent, skills, or time to scratch-build, but like the look, commissioning scratch-built structures from a professional is a form of arts patronage. <br />
<br />
==COMBINING SCRATCH-BUILT WITH PLASTIC KIT BUILDINGS==<br />
<br />
Scratch-built wooden buildings by Daniel Smith and Jeff Roaten combine in a landscape with plastic kit-built structures by Pola, Piko, and Korber Models. Can you tell which is which? [Photo by Becky Herzog.]<br />
<br />
When it comes to building your railroad layout, the choices are yours. Many people opt for the "best of both" approach, utilizing plastic kits kits to emulate brick, stucco, and stone buildings, and enjoying the artisanship of custom-built wooden structures to give the layout a unique, one-of-a-kind look. For those who enjoy architecture as much as railroading, this appraoch allows for the best of both worlds -- fabulously esigned and virtually weatherpoof plastic structures, and buildings modelled after specific prototypes or regional styles, to bring a touch of personal art to the landscape.</div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Aristo-Craft-farm-building-built-up.jpgFile:Aristo-Craft-farm-building-built-up.jpg2017-04-10T19:26:03Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Part_Three:_Plant_Diseases_and_PestsPart Three: Plant Diseases and Pests2017-04-06T19:56:15Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
<h1>PLANTING YOUR GARDEN RAILWAY</h1> <br />
<br />
<p> by Don Herzog<br />
<H3>Originally Presented at the 17th National Garden Railway Convention in Seattle, Washington, 2001</H3><br />
[[Part One: Soil and Water]]<br><br />
[[Part Two: Climates and Micro-Climates]]<br><br />
[[Part Three: Plant Diseases and Pests]]<br><br />
<br />
<br />
<br><br />
<br />
[[File:REGRS logo black and white large.jpg|300px|left]]<br />
<br />
In the thrid and final portion of this article, we will look at some of the <br />
ebemies of plant life on the garden railroad line. Diseases are micro-organisms that <br />
make plants sick and may kill them. Pests are alrger organisms, from the size of a tiny <br />
insect to the size of a full-grown deer, that want to feed upon your railroad garden plants. <br />
<br />
<br />
People who are new to miniature gardening often have concerns about how well <br />
such slow-growing and miniscule plants can be expected o survive outdoors. The <br />
truth is that many hardy plants come in small-leafed or dwarf forms and keeping <br />
them healthy is more a matter of making sure that have the right soil and water <br />
conditions than it is a matter of protecting them from diseases and pests. Still, <br />
it does help to understand the most common enemies of our minitature plants,m so <br />
here is a quick overview of what to look out for. <br />
<br />
<H2>PLANT DISEASES</h2><br />
<br />
The diseases that our miniature plants get are usually varieties of fungus <br />
that cause root and/or stem rots. <br />
<br />
<br />
Botrytus is a common white mold on the leaves. Other fungus appear by turning the leaves black, <br />
red and or yellow in solids or various patterns. All garden fungus initiate in wet weather when <br />
the temperature is between 50 and 55 degrees F. That is why we see more problems in warm wet <br />
weather in the Spring. <br />
<br />
<br />
The way to help prevent fungus is to give all your plants a dormant spray in the winter and <br />
again just before new growth appears in the spring. I use a combination of copper and dormant <br />
oil for that purpose. I also spray my Japanese maples in September and March with Phyton 27. <br />
If your soil is heavy, add decomposed granite, rock, or river sand to help improve drainage. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><H2>PLANT PESTS</h2><br />
<br />
The most common pests found on the plants we use are aphis, thrips, mites, and <br />
scales. All suck the juices from plants and may eventually kill them. Because <br />
garden railroad plants are miniatures and have less juices to suck than normal-size plants, <br />
they are especially vulnerable to predation by sucking insects. <br />
<br />
<br />
Mites usually appear in hot weather and are very tiny. The others are easy to <br />
see. If you find the leaves on your plants looking off color or weird and can't see <br />
anything on them, then get a piece of white paper and place it below the leaves <br />
or needles. Then give the branch a vigorous shake. This is the only way to see <br />
the red spider mites crawling around. The best way to prevent these mite eggs <br />
from hatching on your plants is to use a dormant oil spray in the winter. <br />
<br />
<H2>DORMANT SPRAYS</h2><br />
<br />
Your dormant sprays of fungicide and insecticide can be <br />
combined and applied at the same time. If the insecticide directions say to use <br />
a teaspoon per gallon of water and the fungicide directions say to use a <br />
tablespoon per gallon of water put both items in the same 1 gallon of water. <br />
Generally fungicides and insecticides can be applied together anytime during the <br />
year. <br />
<br />
<br />
Be sure to consult your local nursery for the product you need, follow <br />
directions to the letter and store your insecticides and fungicides in their <br />
original bottles in a safe place away from children. Repeat the application in <br />
7-10 days for best results. An infestation of mites may take 3 applications to <br />
eventually do in the last one. <br />
<br />
<br />
For worms, spray with Bacillus thuringiensis, commonly known in the nursery trade as <br />
BT. Although this is technically an insecticide -- it kills insects -- it is not a <br />
chemical insecticide and is approved by organic gardeners. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><!--Author Bio--><hr width=30%><font size=-1>'''About the Author:'''<br />
'' <br />
Don Herzog has owned and operated Miniature Plant Kingdom in Sebastopol <br />
for more than 50 years, specializing in miniature and dwarf flowers, shrubs, <br />
groundcovers, and trees. During that time, he purchased one of the <br />
first LGB brand large-scale trains to arrive in the United States and helped <br />
start the LGB Club, the REGRS club, and the first Garden Railroad Convention. <br />
In 1972, he built a 30 by 40 foot garden railway layout and in 1992, <br />
he built a second garden railyway layout 55 by 85 foot in size. <br />
After retiring from the nursery business, he tore out those layouts and <br />
commenced work on his final layout of 1/4 acre. <br />
''</font><br />
<br clear=all></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Part_One:_Soil_and_WaterPart One: Soil and Water2017-04-06T19:55:49Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
<h1> PLANTING YOUR GARDEN RAILWAY</h1><br />
<br />
<p> by Don Herzog<br />
<br />
===Originally Presented at the 17th National Garden Railway Convention in Seattle, Washington, 2001===<br />
===Planting Your Railroad Garden by Don Herzog===<br />
<br />
[[Part One: Soil and Water]]<br><br />
[[Part Two: Climates and Micro-Climates]]<br><br />
[[Part Three: Plant Diseases and Pests]]<br><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:REGRS logo black and white large.jpg|300px|left]]<br />
<br />
<br />
In the first portion of this three-part article, we will look at the best practices <br />
for growing and mainaining the garden in which you run your model railway. Although members of <br />
REGRS are located in the Redwood Empire of coastal Northern California, these <br />
fundamental principles apply to all outdoor miniature gardens around the world. <br />
They can be applied by anyone embarking upon the development of a <br />
large-scale model railroad in a garden of miniature or dwarf plants -- <br />
or even by those who want to develop a garden of minitaure plants or a rock garden that has not been <br />
graced by the addition of a working model railroad. <br />
<br />
<H2>GARDEN SOIL</h2><br />
<br />
Soil, also known as dirt, is comprised of minerals and organic matter. Before <br />
you start a garden, it helps to know what kind of soil you have -- clay, <br />
sand, loam, adobe, etc. -- and to add whatever amendments will help it retain <br />
water and nourish your lants. You can start by taking a sample <br />
of your soil to a local nursery and asking for advice, <br />
or by talking to your neighbors about how they have improved their soil. <br />
However, if grass or weeds can grow on your soil, it is probably good enough <br />
for a start, <br />
<br />
<H2>THE RIGHT pH BALANCE FOR YOUR PLAINTS</h2> <br />
Soil acidity or alkilinity is measured by the pH scale. On this scale, 7 is neutral, less <br />
than 7 is acidic, and higher than 7 is basic or alkaline. Many plants prefer to be <br />
grown in acidic or basic soils. <br />
<br />
<br />
I try to keep my soil at a pH of 6.9, which is slightly acidic and seems to accommodate <br />
most everything. However, there are certain plants -- especially the many fine miniature <br />
azaleas and rhododendrons that do well in our ckimate -- which have very strigent requirements <br />
when it comes to acidity or alkalinity, and they will only thrive when the soil in which <br />
you plant them is right for their needs. <br />
<br />
'''TESTING YOUR SOIL'S pH'''<br />
<br />
If you want to test your soil, dig a hole about 3 inches deep in the ground, then <br />
scoop out about 3 tablespoons of dirt. Place it in a coffee filter in a drinking <br />
glass and add enough DISTILLED water so that you have about 3/4 of an inch of water <br />
that came through the soil in the glass after passing through the soil. Test the <br />
water with a pH test strip to determine the pH. Test strips are available from the <br />
drug store for diabetics and also at many garden supply stores. You get 50 from the drug <br />
store or 200 from the farm supply store of the same brand for around $10.00. <br />
<br />
'''RECTIFYING YOUR SOIL'S pH'''<br />
<br />
Those of you who get your water from the Colorado River, particulary in areas of Southern <br />
California where the pH is over 8, need to use an acidifier if you want to grow azaleas, <br />
rhododendrons, gardenias, or other acid-loving plants. <br />
<br />
<br />
There are two ways to do this. The first is to create large holes and fill them with <br />
specially mixed nursery soil marketed for use with rhododenrons and azalaeas. The holes <br />
should be largesr than a 5-gallon pot. <br />
<br />
<br />
A better long-term solution to the problem is obtained by buying a <br />
commercial acidifier for all the soil on the layout and following directions. <br />
Adding soil sulphur to the soil helps, or, if you are good at chemistry, adding <br />
phosphoric acid to the water with a proportioner works extremely well. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><H2>FERTILIZERS</h2><br />
<br />
Fertilizers are soil amendments applied to promote plant growth. The main <br />
nutrients present in fertilizer are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (the <br />
'macronutrients'). Other nutrients (the 'micronutrients') are added in smaller <br />
amounts. Fertilizers are usually directly applied to soil, and also sprayed on <br />
leaves ('foliar feeding'). <br />
<br />
<br />
Fertilizers are roughly broken up between organic and inorganic fertilizer, with <br />
the main difference between the two being sourcing, and not necessarily <br />
differences in nutrient content. <br />
<br />
<br />
Fertilizers typically provide, in varying proportions: <br />
<UL><LI>The three primary macronutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). <br />
<LI>The three secondary macronutrients: calcium (Ca), sulfur (S), and magnesium (Mg). <br />
<LI>The micronutrients or trace minerals: boron (B), chlorine (Cl), manganese (Mn), iron (Fe), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu), molybdenum (Mo), and selenium (Se). <br />
</UL> <br />
The macronutrients are consumed in larger quantities than the micro nutrients. <br />
<br />
<br />
There are many formulas of fertilizer, so this is what I use on everything: <br />
<br />
<br />
OSMOCOTE 18-6-12 is an encapsulated fertilizer and is applied to the soil in the early spring. <br />
A tiny bit squeeks out of the pellet every time you water when the temperature is above 65 degrees. <br />
I use: <br />
<UL><LI>A quarter level teaspoon on 2 inch pots. <br />
<LI>A half level teaspoon on 4 inch pots, <br />
<LI> 1 level teaspoon on 1 gallon cans. <br />
<LI> 1 level tablespoon on 5 gallon cans. <br />
</UL> <br />
I also use MIRACID on basic soils and MIRACLE GROW on acidic soils starting 1 month after <br />
the new growth appears and each month until September, when I fertilize with a 0-10-10 <br />
mixture which promotes root growth and flowers for the next spring. <br />
<br />
<br />
Fertilizer can only be utilized when the plant is growing. So, if you are in an <br />
area that has a longer growing season you will have to continue fertilizing <br />
later into the fall. Be sure to spread the fertilizer around the plant base. <br />
<br />
<br />
Some plants and trees are also heavier feeders than others and require more fertilizer,. For instance, <br />
drawf pomegranates are heavy feeders and I fertilize these <br />
every 2 weeks until the fruit sets. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><H2>IRRIGATION SYSTEMS</h2><br />
<br />
I use overhead sprinkler irrigation on my nursery, which is very convenient for <br />
me. However, as we have a lot of iron in our water and it turns the leaves a <br />
brown color, so I will use drip irrigation proceded by an iron filter on my new <br />
layout. What is important, is not the delivery of the water, but when. <br />
<br />
<br />
Water early in the morning so that the plants are full up for the day. I set my <br />
clocks to start about 5 a.m. On hot days, I water again at 1 p.m. The important <br />
thing is to NEVER SEND YOUR PLANTS TO BED WITH WET LEAVES as this promotes <br />
fungus! <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><hr width=30%><font size=-1>'''About the Author:'''<br />
'' <br />
Don Herzog has owned and operated Miniature Plant Kingdom in Sebastopol <br />
for more than 50 years, specializing in miniature and dwarf flowers, shrubs, <br />
groundcovers, and trees. During that time, he purchased one of the <br />
first LGB brand large-scale trains to arrive in the United States and helped <br />
start the LGB Club, the REGRS club, and the first Garden Railroad Convention. <br />
In 1972, he built a 30 by 40 foot garden railway layout and in 1992, <br />
he built a second garden railyway layout 55 by 85 foot in size. <br />
After retiring from the nursery business, he tore out those layouts and <br />
commenced work on his final layout of 1/4 acre. <br />
''</font><br />
<br clear=all></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Part_Two:_Climates_and_Micro-ClimatesPart Two: Climates and Micro-Climates2017-04-06T19:55:34Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
<H1>PLANTING YOUR GARDEN RAILWAY</h1><br />
<p> by Don Herzog<br />
<H3>Originally Presented at the 17th National Garden Railway Convention in Seattle, Washington, 2001</H3><br />
[[Part One: Soil and Water]]<br><br />
[[Part Two: Climates and Micro-Climates]]<br><br />
[[Part Three: Plant Diseases and Pests]]<br><br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:REGRS logo black and white large.jpg|300px|left]]<br />
<br />
<br />
In the second portion of this three-part article, we will look at the overall <br />
climates in our area, which range from coastal to inland, and we will consider <br />
a few of the tricks and tips that master gardeners use to create micro-climates <br />
or small areas of differing climatic conditions in a single yard, to provide the <br />
best environment for particular miniature plants that might not otherwise <br />
grow in all areas. <br />
<br />
<br />
When selecting which plants to grow on your garden railway, you will first need to <br />
consider your overall climate and then the location on each part of your <br />
layout in terms of sun and shade. If you build mountains, if your land is on <br />
a slope, or if buildings cast strong shadows part of the day, different <br />
parts of your layout may be brighter and hotter or darker and cooler <br />
than other parts, and will require different kinds of plants. <br />
<br />
<H2>THE BALANCE OF LIGHT AND SHADOW</h2><br />
'''SUN:''' Most plants grow in the sun and require a minimum of 4-6 hours of sunlight per day during <br />
the growing season to do their best. Too much sun can harm plants that prefer partial shade; however many sun-loving plants will <br />
survive in shaded areas, even though they may not produce full crops of flowers or fruit due to a lack of <br />
light. <br />
<br />
'''SHADE:''' There are many species of shade-loving plants, such as <br />
ferns, primulas, perennials, and alpines that <br />
prefer growing in the shade, all of which have miniature forms perfect for our <br />
use. However, if the shaded area in which you wish to put plants will not grow <br />
weeds, then it is generally too shady to grow even shade-loving plants and the land <br />
might best be used for structures or train yards. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><H2>TOO HOT</h2><br />
<br />
Heat varies in its effects in this country, depending where you live. <br />
100 degrees on the East Coast, along the Gulf Coast, and in the Mid-West states <br />
is vastly different from the same temperature in desert areas and alomg the West Coast <br />
because of the humidity -- or lack of it -- that goes along with it. <br />
<br />
<br />
Many plants can survive and grow well with high temperatures as long as <br />
they also have high humidity, whereas the same <br />
plants will fry in areas of heat with low humidity. This difference has created many diverse <br />
plant groups that thrive in their native areas and theoretically would do well <br />
in our USDA Zone, based on their level of heat tolerance, but will disappoint if you <br />
try to grow them in places that don't suit their humidity requirements. <br />
<br />
'''MICRO-CLIMATES HELP BEAT THE HEAT:'''<br />
<br />
In many instances you can change local heat conditions to satisfy the <br />
needs of plants not generally grown in your area. To do this, you can create a <br />
micro-climate, a small area that is less hot or more humid than the layout in general. <br />
<br />
<br />
Here's an example of how a micro-climate can assist plants in hot areas: The San Diego <br />
Garden Railroad Society had a gathering in the 1970s where the concept of <br />
the Garden Railroad Convention began. There were several tours of garden <br />
railroads and on one of them I saw, to my amazement, a well-groomed, fantastic specimen of a <br />
''Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Kosteri'''. It should not have been able to grow there, as the area is too hot and <br />
dry and the plant would surely die in the sun. However, there it was in all its glory. I <br />
looked the situation over and found out why this plant was thriving, despite the hot <br />
climate. It was growing at the base of a 30-foot cliff, on the <br />
north side, where it got plenty of light but was in the shade all afternoon, so <br />
that it did not burn. It was also at the edge of a well-watered lawn which gave it <br />
sufficient humidity to withstand the heat. I then realized that afternoon shade <br />
can help many plants survive that would not normally grow in a particular area. <br />
<br />
'''HOW TO CREATE AFTERNOON SHADE:'''<br />
<br />
Afternoon shade can be provided to plants that would benefit from it by <br />
positioning them near full-sized buildings, trees, fences, and rocks, <br />
and also by strategic placement of G-scale buildings and other miniature <br />
trees and shrubs on our layouts. In addition, you can employ lathe-work of <br />
create shade through the use of shade cloth. <br />
<br />
<br />
There are many varieties of shade cloth available, including woven and knitted types. <br />
They come in several colours, black and white being the most common, and they <br />
range in density from 30% shade to 90% shade. Their installation can be permanent, <br />
temporary, or seasonal. <br />
<br />
<br />
In Phoenix, one of my customers uses shade cloth on frames over his layout that he <br />
removes whenever he is operating his trains. <br />
<br />
<br />
Another customer of mine uses 83% shade cloth to protect his plants from the heat. <br />
He had grommets placed every few <br />
feet along the opposite edges of the shade cloth, then threaded wire through them. <br />
Next he had 6 inch by 6 inch posts installed at the 4 corners of his layout. <br />
The wires on each of the 2 sides of the shade cloth <br />
were stretched and put into place on the posts. To create the optimal amount of <br />
shade, he pulls the shade cloth open <br />
in the winter and draws it over his layout in the summer. This has permitted <br />
him to grow multitudes of miniature and dwarf plants that he otherwise would not <br />
be able to keep in his climate. <br />
<br />
<br />
Other garden railroaders in hot dry locations have installed permanent <br />
shade cloth over their layouts. If you like the look, the plants will certainly <br />
like the micro-climate. <br />
<br />
'''CHAMAECYPARIS: THE IDEAL CANDIDATE FOR AFTERNOON SHADE:'''<br />
<br />
A group of <a href=http://regrs.org/miniature-conifers>'''evergreen coniferous plants'''</a> <br />
called ''Chamaecyparis thyoides'' or Eastern White Cedar, native <br />
to Georgia, seems to do well in warm, dry areas if given afternoon shade. <br />
One variety, ''Chamaecyparis thyoides 'Ericoides''', seems to adapt quite well in <br />
otherwise unsuitably hot areas. Other varieties to try with afternoon shade <br />
include '''Little Jamie', 'Top Point''', and '''andelyensis conica'''. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><H2>TOO COLD</h2><br />
<br />
Many plants have marginal survival rates in cold areas. What kills plants in the <br />
cold is the tearing of the leaves as the frost turns to ice. <br />
<br />
'''PROTECTIVE MULCH''' <br />
Cold-sensitive plants are usually mulched in the winter. Just covering them -- with <br />
anything from straw to gunny sacks or old bedsheets -- on the coldest nights <br />
keeps the frost off the leaves and gives them a few vital degrees of protection. <br />
<br />
'''ELECTRIC LIGHTS''' <br />
Where I live, about 65 miles northwest of San Francisco, <br />
I like to grow citrus plants that will not usually survive in a cold winter. <br />
I weave old-fashioned Christmas lights -- the kind that are about the size of your thumb -- <br />
throughout the trees in the fall, then turn them on and cover the plants with a sheet <br />
or tarp on cold nights. It works just fine. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><H2>TOO WET</h2><br />
<br />
In some areas on a layout your drainage may not be the best. If amending the soil <br />
by adding sand does not help, you will note that some species of plants have a <br />
tendency to drown or develop crown-rot in those overly-wet areas. Dialing back the <br />
amount of water you give the plants is a first step, but unless you hand-water <br />
the entire layout, these too-wet areas will continue to give problems. <br />
<br />
'''ELEVATING THE CROWNS'''<br />
<br />
To keep plants out of standing water, plant <br />
them a little higher than ground level, say about a half to � inch. Then use <br />
chicken grit or other small gravel around them out to the drip line, allowing the <br />
crown and leaves to stay drier. Each plant is on its own little mini-plateau <br />
and incidences of crown-rot will be dramatically decreased. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><H2>TOO DRY</h2><br />
<br />
In areas where it is extremely dry, your first choice is to select drought-tolerant <br />
plants. Your next choice is to creade some shade -- espcially afternoon shade <br />
(see above). If that is not sufficient, you can use foggers. <br />
<br />
'''FOGGERS'''<br />
<br />
Foggers produce a very fine mist -- much finer than a sprayer does. <br />
There are available low-pressure foggers that you can run intermittently or <br />
constantly during the time needed, by mens with a time clock. The major <br />
drawback to foggers is that when the wind comes up, the fog will drift with the <br />
wind and your most vulnerable plants may not get enough fogging. Try to counteract <br />
this by setting up the foggers so that under the most common or prevailing <br />
wind conditions they will blow their mist over the layout. <br />
<br />
'''RESCUING DROUGHT-STRESSED PLANTS'''<br />
<br />
Should you find plants <br />
wilted or in distress due to high temperatures or overly dry soil, <br />
water them with a product called Superthrive using 1 cap <br />
full per gallon of water for the next 3 days. I have had some of my Bonsai trees <br />
return from the grave using this product. It is a good idea to keep a small <br />
bottle of it available "just in case." <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><!--Author Bio--><hr width=30%><font size=-1>'''About the Author:'''<br />
'' <br />
Don Herzog has owned and operated Miniature Plant Kingdom in Sebastopol <br />
for more than 50 years, specializing in miniature and dwarf flowers, shrubs, <br />
groundcovers, and trees. During that time, he purchased one of the <br />
first LGB brand large-scale trains to arrive in the United States and helped <br />
start the LGB Club, the REGRS club, and the first Garden Railroad Convention. <br />
In 1972, he built a 30 by 40 foot garden railway layout and in 1992, <br />
he built a second garden railyway layout 55 by 85 foot in size. <br />
After retiring from the nursery business, he tore out those layouts and <br />
commenced work on his final layout of 1/4 acre. <br />
''</font><br />
<br clear=all></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Part_Two:_Climates_and_Micro-ClimatesPart Two: Climates and Micro-Climates2017-04-06T19:55:14Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
<H1>PLANTING YOUR GARDEN RAILWAY</h1><br />
<p> by Don Herzog<br />
<H3>Originally Presented at the 17th National Garden Railway Convention in Seattle, Washington, 2001</H3><br />
[[Part One: Soil and Water]]<br><br />
[[Part Two: Climates and Micro-Climates]]<br><br />
[[Part Three: Plant Diseases and Pests]]<br><br />
[[Selecting the Best Garden Railway Plants for Your Layout]]<br />
<br />
[[File:REGRS logo black and white large.jpg|300px|left]]<br />
<br />
<br />
In the second portion of this three-part article, we will look at the overall <br />
climates in our area, which range from coastal to inland, and we will consider <br />
a few of the tricks and tips that master gardeners use to create micro-climates <br />
or small areas of differing climatic conditions in a single yard, to provide the <br />
best environment for particular miniature plants that might not otherwise <br />
grow in all areas. <br />
<br />
<br />
When selecting which plants to grow on your garden railway, you will first need to <br />
consider your overall climate and then the location on each part of your <br />
layout in terms of sun and shade. If you build mountains, if your land is on <br />
a slope, or if buildings cast strong shadows part of the day, different <br />
parts of your layout may be brighter and hotter or darker and cooler <br />
than other parts, and will require different kinds of plants. <br />
<br />
<H2>THE BALANCE OF LIGHT AND SHADOW</h2><br />
'''SUN:''' Most plants grow in the sun and require a minimum of 4-6 hours of sunlight per day during <br />
the growing season to do their best. Too much sun can harm plants that prefer partial shade; however many sun-loving plants will <br />
survive in shaded areas, even though they may not produce full crops of flowers or fruit due to a lack of <br />
light. <br />
<br />
'''SHADE:''' There are many species of shade-loving plants, such as <br />
ferns, primulas, perennials, and alpines that <br />
prefer growing in the shade, all of which have miniature forms perfect for our <br />
use. However, if the shaded area in which you wish to put plants will not grow <br />
weeds, then it is generally too shady to grow even shade-loving plants and the land <br />
might best be used for structures or train yards. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><H2>TOO HOT</h2><br />
<br />
Heat varies in its effects in this country, depending where you live. <br />
100 degrees on the East Coast, along the Gulf Coast, and in the Mid-West states <br />
is vastly different from the same temperature in desert areas and alomg the West Coast <br />
because of the humidity -- or lack of it -- that goes along with it. <br />
<br />
<br />
Many plants can survive and grow well with high temperatures as long as <br />
they also have high humidity, whereas the same <br />
plants will fry in areas of heat with low humidity. This difference has created many diverse <br />
plant groups that thrive in their native areas and theoretically would do well <br />
in our USDA Zone, based on their level of heat tolerance, but will disappoint if you <br />
try to grow them in places that don't suit their humidity requirements. <br />
<br />
'''MICRO-CLIMATES HELP BEAT THE HEAT:'''<br />
<br />
In many instances you can change local heat conditions to satisfy the <br />
needs of plants not generally grown in your area. To do this, you can create a <br />
micro-climate, a small area that is less hot or more humid than the layout in general. <br />
<br />
<br />
Here's an example of how a micro-climate can assist plants in hot areas: The San Diego <br />
Garden Railroad Society had a gathering in the 1970s where the concept of <br />
the Garden Railroad Convention began. There were several tours of garden <br />
railroads and on one of them I saw, to my amazement, a well-groomed, fantastic specimen of a <br />
''Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Kosteri'''. It should not have been able to grow there, as the area is too hot and <br />
dry and the plant would surely die in the sun. However, there it was in all its glory. I <br />
looked the situation over and found out why this plant was thriving, despite the hot <br />
climate. It was growing at the base of a 30-foot cliff, on the <br />
north side, where it got plenty of light but was in the shade all afternoon, so <br />
that it did not burn. It was also at the edge of a well-watered lawn which gave it <br />
sufficient humidity to withstand the heat. I then realized that afternoon shade <br />
can help many plants survive that would not normally grow in a particular area. <br />
<br />
'''HOW TO CREATE AFTERNOON SHADE:'''<br />
<br />
Afternoon shade can be provided to plants that would benefit from it by <br />
positioning them near full-sized buildings, trees, fences, and rocks, <br />
and also by strategic placement of G-scale buildings and other miniature <br />
trees and shrubs on our layouts. In addition, you can employ lathe-work of <br />
create shade through the use of shade cloth. <br />
<br />
<br />
There are many varieties of shade cloth available, including woven and knitted types. <br />
They come in several colours, black and white being the most common, and they <br />
range in density from 30% shade to 90% shade. Their installation can be permanent, <br />
temporary, or seasonal. <br />
<br />
<br />
In Phoenix, one of my customers uses shade cloth on frames over his layout that he <br />
removes whenever he is operating his trains. <br />
<br />
<br />
Another customer of mine uses 83% shade cloth to protect his plants from the heat. <br />
He had grommets placed every few <br />
feet along the opposite edges of the shade cloth, then threaded wire through them. <br />
Next he had 6 inch by 6 inch posts installed at the 4 corners of his layout. <br />
The wires on each of the 2 sides of the shade cloth <br />
were stretched and put into place on the posts. To create the optimal amount of <br />
shade, he pulls the shade cloth open <br />
in the winter and draws it over his layout in the summer. This has permitted <br />
him to grow multitudes of miniature and dwarf plants that he otherwise would not <br />
be able to keep in his climate. <br />
<br />
<br />
Other garden railroaders in hot dry locations have installed permanent <br />
shade cloth over their layouts. If you like the look, the plants will certainly <br />
like the micro-climate. <br />
<br />
'''CHAMAECYPARIS: THE IDEAL CANDIDATE FOR AFTERNOON SHADE:'''<br />
<br />
A group of <a href=http://regrs.org/miniature-conifers>'''evergreen coniferous plants'''</a> <br />
called ''Chamaecyparis thyoides'' or Eastern White Cedar, native <br />
to Georgia, seems to do well in warm, dry areas if given afternoon shade. <br />
One variety, ''Chamaecyparis thyoides 'Ericoides''', seems to adapt quite well in <br />
otherwise unsuitably hot areas. Other varieties to try with afternoon shade <br />
include '''Little Jamie', 'Top Point''', and '''andelyensis conica'''. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><H2>TOO COLD</h2><br />
<br />
Many plants have marginal survival rates in cold areas. What kills plants in the <br />
cold is the tearing of the leaves as the frost turns to ice. <br />
<br />
'''PROTECTIVE MULCH''' <br />
Cold-sensitive plants are usually mulched in the winter. Just covering them -- with <br />
anything from straw to gunny sacks or old bedsheets -- on the coldest nights <br />
keeps the frost off the leaves and gives them a few vital degrees of protection. <br />
<br />
'''ELECTRIC LIGHTS''' <br />
Where I live, about 65 miles northwest of San Francisco, <br />
I like to grow citrus plants that will not usually survive in a cold winter. <br />
I weave old-fashioned Christmas lights -- the kind that are about the size of your thumb -- <br />
throughout the trees in the fall, then turn them on and cover the plants with a sheet <br />
or tarp on cold nights. It works just fine. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><H2>TOO WET</h2><br />
<br />
In some areas on a layout your drainage may not be the best. If amending the soil <br />
by adding sand does not help, you will note that some species of plants have a <br />
tendency to drown or develop crown-rot in those overly-wet areas. Dialing back the <br />
amount of water you give the plants is a first step, but unless you hand-water <br />
the entire layout, these too-wet areas will continue to give problems. <br />
<br />
'''ELEVATING THE CROWNS'''<br />
<br />
To keep plants out of standing water, plant <br />
them a little higher than ground level, say about a half to � inch. Then use <br />
chicken grit or other small gravel around them out to the drip line, allowing the <br />
crown and leaves to stay drier. Each plant is on its own little mini-plateau <br />
and incidences of crown-rot will be dramatically decreased. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><H2>TOO DRY</h2><br />
<br />
In areas where it is extremely dry, your first choice is to select drought-tolerant <br />
plants. Your next choice is to creade some shade -- espcially afternoon shade <br />
(see above). If that is not sufficient, you can use foggers. <br />
<br />
'''FOGGERS'''<br />
<br />
Foggers produce a very fine mist -- much finer than a sprayer does. <br />
There are available low-pressure foggers that you can run intermittently or <br />
constantly during the time needed, by mens with a time clock. The major <br />
drawback to foggers is that when the wind comes up, the fog will drift with the <br />
wind and your most vulnerable plants may not get enough fogging. Try to counteract <br />
this by setting up the foggers so that under the most common or prevailing <br />
wind conditions they will blow their mist over the layout. <br />
<br />
'''RESCUING DROUGHT-STRESSED PLANTS'''<br />
<br />
Should you find plants <br />
wilted or in distress due to high temperatures or overly dry soil, <br />
water them with a product called Superthrive using 1 cap <br />
full per gallon of water for the next 3 days. I have had some of my Bonsai trees <br />
return from the grave using this product. It is a good idea to keep a small <br />
bottle of it available "just in case." <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><!--Author Bio--><hr width=30%><font size=-1>'''About the Author:'''<br />
'' <br />
Don Herzog has owned and operated Miniature Plant Kingdom in Sebastopol <br />
for more than 50 years, specializing in miniature and dwarf flowers, shrubs, <br />
groundcovers, and trees. During that time, he purchased one of the <br />
first LGB brand large-scale trains to arrive in the United States and helped <br />
start the LGB Club, the REGRS club, and the first Garden Railroad Convention. <br />
In 1972, he built a 30 by 40 foot garden railway layout and in 1992, <br />
he built a second garden railyway layout 55 by 85 foot in size. <br />
After retiring from the nursery business, he tore out those layouts and <br />
commenced work on his final layout of 1/4 acre. <br />
''</font><br />
<br clear=all></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Part_One:_Soil_and_WaterPart One: Soil and Water2017-04-06T19:54:43Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
<h1> PLANTING YOUR GARDEN RAILWAY</h1><br />
<br />
<p> by Don Herzog<br />
<br />
===Originally Presented at the 17th National Garden Railway Convention in Seattle, Washington, 2001===<br />
===Planting Your Railroad Garden by Don Herzog===<br />
<br />
[[Part One: Soil and Water]]<br><br />
[[Part Two: Climates and Micro-Climates]]<br><br />
[[Part Three: Plant Diseases and Pests]]<br><br />
[[Selecting the Best Garden Railway Plants for Your Layout]]<br />
<br />
[[File:REGRS logo black and white large.jpg|300px|left]]<br />
<br />
<br />
In the first portion of this three-part article, we will look at the best practices <br />
for growing and mainaining the garden in which you run your model railway. Although members of <br />
REGRS are located in the Redwood Empire of coastal Northern California, these <br />
fundamental principles apply to all outdoor miniature gardens around the world. <br />
They can be applied by anyone embarking upon the development of a <br />
large-scale model railroad in a garden of miniature or dwarf plants -- <br />
or even by those who want to develop a garden of minitaure plants or a rock garden that has not been <br />
graced by the addition of a working model railroad. <br />
<br />
<H2>GARDEN SOIL</h2><br />
<br />
Soil, also known as dirt, is comprised of minerals and organic matter. Before <br />
you start a garden, it helps to know what kind of soil you have -- clay, <br />
sand, loam, adobe, etc. -- and to add whatever amendments will help it retain <br />
water and nourish your lants. You can start by taking a sample <br />
of your soil to a local nursery and asking for advice, <br />
or by talking to your neighbors about how they have improved their soil. <br />
However, if grass or weeds can grow on your soil, it is probably good enough <br />
for a start, <br />
<br />
<H2>THE RIGHT pH BALANCE FOR YOUR PLAINTS</h2> <br />
Soil acidity or alkilinity is measured by the pH scale. On this scale, 7 is neutral, less <br />
than 7 is acidic, and higher than 7 is basic or alkaline. Many plants prefer to be <br />
grown in acidic or basic soils. <br />
<br />
<br />
I try to keep my soil at a pH of 6.9, which is slightly acidic and seems to accommodate <br />
most everything. However, there are certain plants -- especially the many fine miniature <br />
azaleas and rhododendrons that do well in our ckimate -- which have very strigent requirements <br />
when it comes to acidity or alkalinity, and they will only thrive when the soil in which <br />
you plant them is right for their needs. <br />
<br />
'''TESTING YOUR SOIL'S pH'''<br />
<br />
If you want to test your soil, dig a hole about 3 inches deep in the ground, then <br />
scoop out about 3 tablespoons of dirt. Place it in a coffee filter in a drinking <br />
glass and add enough DISTILLED water so that you have about 3/4 of an inch of water <br />
that came through the soil in the glass after passing through the soil. Test the <br />
water with a pH test strip to determine the pH. Test strips are available from the <br />
drug store for diabetics and also at many garden supply stores. You get 50 from the drug <br />
store or 200 from the farm supply store of the same brand for around $10.00. <br />
<br />
'''RECTIFYING YOUR SOIL'S pH'''<br />
<br />
Those of you who get your water from the Colorado River, particulary in areas of Southern <br />
California where the pH is over 8, need to use an acidifier if you want to grow azaleas, <br />
rhododendrons, gardenias, or other acid-loving plants. <br />
<br />
<br />
There are two ways to do this. The first is to create large holes and fill them with <br />
specially mixed nursery soil marketed for use with rhododenrons and azalaeas. The holes <br />
should be largesr than a 5-gallon pot. <br />
<br />
<br />
A better long-term solution to the problem is obtained by buying a <br />
commercial acidifier for all the soil on the layout and following directions. <br />
Adding soil sulphur to the soil helps, or, if you are good at chemistry, adding <br />
phosphoric acid to the water with a proportioner works extremely well. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><H2>FERTILIZERS</h2><br />
<br />
Fertilizers are soil amendments applied to promote plant growth. The main <br />
nutrients present in fertilizer are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (the <br />
'macronutrients'). Other nutrients (the 'micronutrients') are added in smaller <br />
amounts. Fertilizers are usually directly applied to soil, and also sprayed on <br />
leaves ('foliar feeding'). <br />
<br />
<br />
Fertilizers are roughly broken up between organic and inorganic fertilizer, with <br />
the main difference between the two being sourcing, and not necessarily <br />
differences in nutrient content. <br />
<br />
<br />
Fertilizers typically provide, in varying proportions: <br />
<UL><LI>The three primary macronutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). <br />
<LI>The three secondary macronutrients: calcium (Ca), sulfur (S), and magnesium (Mg). <br />
<LI>The micronutrients or trace minerals: boron (B), chlorine (Cl), manganese (Mn), iron (Fe), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu), molybdenum (Mo), and selenium (Se). <br />
</UL> <br />
The macronutrients are consumed in larger quantities than the micro nutrients. <br />
<br />
<br />
There are many formulas of fertilizer, so this is what I use on everything: <br />
<br />
<br />
OSMOCOTE 18-6-12 is an encapsulated fertilizer and is applied to the soil in the early spring. <br />
A tiny bit squeeks out of the pellet every time you water when the temperature is above 65 degrees. <br />
I use: <br />
<UL><LI>A quarter level teaspoon on 2 inch pots. <br />
<LI>A half level teaspoon on 4 inch pots, <br />
<LI> 1 level teaspoon on 1 gallon cans. <br />
<LI> 1 level tablespoon on 5 gallon cans. <br />
</UL> <br />
I also use MIRACID on basic soils and MIRACLE GROW on acidic soils starting 1 month after <br />
the new growth appears and each month until September, when I fertilize with a 0-10-10 <br />
mixture which promotes root growth and flowers for the next spring. <br />
<br />
<br />
Fertilizer can only be utilized when the plant is growing. So, if you are in an <br />
area that has a longer growing season you will have to continue fertilizing <br />
later into the fall. Be sure to spread the fertilizer around the plant base. <br />
<br />
<br />
Some plants and trees are also heavier feeders than others and require more fertilizer,. For instance, <br />
drawf pomegranates are heavy feeders and I fertilize these <br />
every 2 weeks until the fruit sets. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><H2>IRRIGATION SYSTEMS</h2><br />
<br />
I use overhead sprinkler irrigation on my nursery, which is very convenient for <br />
me. However, as we have a lot of iron in our water and it turns the leaves a <br />
brown color, so I will use drip irrigation proceded by an iron filter on my new <br />
layout. What is important, is not the delivery of the water, but when. <br />
<br />
<br />
Water early in the morning so that the plants are full up for the day. I set my <br />
clocks to start about 5 a.m. On hot days, I water again at 1 p.m. The important <br />
thing is to NEVER SEND YOUR PLANTS TO BED WITH WET LEAVES as this promotes <br />
fungus! <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><hr width=30%><font size=-1>'''About the Author:'''<br />
'' <br />
Don Herzog has owned and operated Miniature Plant Kingdom in Sebastopol <br />
for more than 50 years, specializing in miniature and dwarf flowers, shrubs, <br />
groundcovers, and trees. During that time, he purchased one of the <br />
first LGB brand large-scale trains to arrive in the United States and helped <br />
start the LGB Club, the REGRS club, and the first Garden Railroad Convention. <br />
In 1972, he built a 30 by 40 foot garden railway layout and in 1992, <br />
he built a second garden railyway layout 55 by 85 foot in size. <br />
After retiring from the nursery business, he tore out those layouts and <br />
commenced work on his final layout of 1/4 acre. <br />
''</font><br />
<br clear=all></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Railroad_Gardening_with_Miniature_PlantsRailroad Gardening with Miniature Plants2017-04-06T19:53:44Z<p>Marcus Wolf: /* Planting Your Railroad Garden by Don Herzog */</p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
<br />
==GARDENING WITH MINIATURE PLANTS==<br />
<br />
A garden railroad is more than an an outdoor model railway. Even if you run your g-scale trains on the lawn or among the weeds, those plants are your "garden." But for most of us, designing a garden -- selecting and caring for miniature plants -- is a great part of the fun we find in model railroading.<br />
This page is a hub from which you can select and read articles on all aspects of railroad gardening, from basic instructions on how to make sure your garden will support the plants you want to see on your model train layout, to expert advice on the best species and varieties for every sort of "look," from formal and evergreen to informal and colourful.<br />
<br />
===Planting Your Railroad Garden by Don Herzog===<br />
<br />
[[Part One: Soil and Water]]<br><br />
[[Part Two: Climates and Micro-Climates]]<br><br />
[[Part Three: Plant Diseases and Pests]]<br><br />
<br />
<br />
==Selecting the Best Garden Railway Plants for Your Layout==<br />
<br />
[[Miniature Conifers]]<br><br />
[[Miniature Ground Covers]]</div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Little-conifers-at-ET%26WNC_small.jpgFile:Little-conifers-at-ET&WNC small.jpg2017-04-06T19:51:44Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Miniature_ConifersMiniature Conifers2017-04-06T19:51:32Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
<br />
<h2>FOR YOUR GARDEN RAILWAY</h2><br />
<br />
<br />
When it comes to conifers, most are evergreen (the Dawn Redwood is an exception), <br />
but they vary in size and shape from miniature trees with a tall "forested" <br />
look to miniature shrubs that work well along town streets and look great <br />
when planted in pairs flanking entrances and doorways <br />
houses. Far from being a monotonous dark forest green in colour, many <br />
names varieties come in bright shades of lime and chartreuse, and some are vaiegated. <br />
<br clear-all><br />
<H3>MINIATURE CONIFEROUS FORESTS</h3><br />
<br />
[[File:Little-conifers-at-ET&WNC_small.jpg|thumb|400px|right|Photo by Becky Herzog.]]<br />
<font size=-1> <br />
Miniature coniferous trees form the "backbone" of a new planting -- <br />
herbacous ground cover plants will added next, to stabilize the <br />
soil and complete the scene. <br />
</font><br />
<br />
The coastal region known as the North Bay Area is an area of mixed <br />
Oak lands, pasture lands, and dense coniferous forests, characterised by <br />
our most spectacular tree, the Coast Redwood. For those of us who live <br />
in the "Redwood Empire," nothing says "home" like a forest of <br />
evergreen conifers. They love our climate and adapt well to the <br />
garden railway environment. <br />
<br />
<br />
Included on many REGRS layouts are various species of mannerly and slow-growing conifers <br />
that, with only light and regular pruning, will retain their shape and size for a decades. Some people <br />
call these selected miniatures "natural bonzai trees," but unlike a true bonzai, they live right <br />
in the ground, year round. Most of them need thorough and frequent watering to thrive, <br />
and a sprinkler or drip irrigation system is an essential part of the planning that goes <br />
into extablishing your own miniature evergreen forest. <br />
<br />
<H2> DON HERZOG'S CONIFEROUS TIPS:</H2><br />
<br />
Coniferous trees that may be adaptable to your area are: <br />
<UL><LI>Alpine Fir <br />
<LI>Mountain Hemlock <br />
<LI>''Juniper communis compressa''<LI>Arborvitae <br />
<LI>Dwarf Mugho Pines such as 'Mitsch Mini' <br />
<LI>''Pinus banksia'' varieties with 1/2 inch needles such as ''Pinus banksia 'Manomet' '' <br />
are very slow growing. Mine is 2 feet tall in 20 years, and absolutely beautiful. <br />
<LI>Several ''Pinus flexilis'' varieties only grow 1/2 to 11/2 inches a year. <br />
<LI>''Chamaecyparis thyoides'' or Dwarf Eastern White Cedars such as 'Little Jamie', <br />
'Meth Dwarf', 'Top Point', 'Andelensis Conica' and 'Ericoides' do well in warm, dry areas <br />
if given afternoon shade. <br />
<LI>There are over a hundred varieties of ''Chamaecyparis obtusa'' or Hinoki <br />
Cypress that take many years to reach a foot or two; named varieties include 'Bess', 'Densa', <br />
'Laxa', 'Intermedia', 'JR', 'Hage', 'Juniperioides', 'Nana', and 'Green Cushion.' <br />
<LI> Another Cypress, ''Chamaecyparis lawsoniana 'Green Globe','' does well in <br />
the shade in hot areas. <br />
<LI>''Chamaecyparis pisifera plumosa compressa'' or Club Moss Cypress seems to do well <br />
in Southern California, even in the smog. <br />
<LI>The ''Thuja occidentalis'' varieites Tiny Tim and Hetz Midget are worth looking for. <br />
<LI>''Picea glauca 'Conica''' or Dwarf Alberta Spruce looks like a peprfect evergreen <br />
when you purchase it, but if not pruned, it may reach 4 to 6 feet in height, so plan ahead. <br />
</UL <br />
<br />
<br />
You can join the American Conifer Society to receive regular information about <br />
the many varieties of dwarf conifers.</div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Little-conifers-at-ET%26WNC.pngFile:Little-conifers-at-ET&WNC.png2017-04-06T19:49:53Z<p>Marcus Wolf: Marcus Wolf uploaded a new version of &quot;File:Little-conifers-at-ET&WNC.png&quot;</p>
<hr />
<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Miniature_Ground_CoversMiniature Ground Covers2017-04-06T19:45:54Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div><h2>FOR YOUR GARDEN RAILWAY</h2><br />
<br />
Ground covers are plants that cover bare soil in a carpet of green. They help <br />
hold the soil and give your layout a natural, lush appearance. Any spreading <br />
plant can be considered a ground cover, but for our purposes, and in our region, <br />
ground covers are small-leafed, very low-growing perennials that may also bear flowers <br />
<br />
<br />
<H3>MINIATURE GROUND COVER PLANTS</h3><br />
[[File:miniature-thyme.jpg|thumb|400px|left|This is miniature Elfin Thyme in pots, waiting to be set out on a garden railway <br />
layout. [Photo by catherine yronwode.]]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Ground covers can be purchased at many local nurseries and hardware stores <br />
in our Northern California region throughout the growing season, <br />
but the plants we prize most are those with tiny leaves, "in scale" with our garden <br />
railroad trains. Some of these miniatures are only available from specialized miniature plant <br />
nurseries -- but before you search the internet and send off for potted plants from a <br />
distant source, be sure to check in with your friends at REGRS -- many of us are glad to make <br />
cuttings, provide tip-rooting, or divide and propagate plants for for fellow members. <br />
<br />
<br />
Miniature Thymes of various species and cultivars grow extremely well in our <br />
Mediterranean Zone 9 climate. The Creeping Thymes are especially <br />
prized for their ability to cascade down walls and rockwork, <br />
while Elfin Thym, shown here, makes an ideal carpet of green on flat areas. <br />
The creeping Thymes, as their name implies, may require trimming or diversion of their shoots to <br />
avoid overtaking railroad tracks or small structures. The Elfin thymes do not <br />
cascade, but they grow into solid mats of green, with pale pink or lavender flowers in <br />
season. <br />
<br />
<br />
Thymes enjoy full sun but will tolerate partial shade. They are easy going and not <br />
are not water-intensive. Most of them have deep green or grey-green leaves, <br />
and seasonal blooms in tints of pink, lavender, or purple. <br />
Removing the spent blooms keeps the plants neat and tidy. For fast and effective ground cover, <br />
nothing beats miniature Thyme in our Northern California region. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><br />
[[File:Golden-Sedum-In-Nursery-Pots.jpg|thumb|400px|left|This is Golden Sedum, ready to plant in nusery pots. [Photo by catherine yronwode.]]]<br />
<br />
There are many other great ground covers suitable for use on garden railroads, <br />
and we all have our favourites. In addition, there are certain <br />
ground cover plants that some gardeners <br />
love, abut others find to be troublesome. <br />
<br />
<br />
Golden Sedum, for instance, provides startling colour <br />
and has an eye-catching habit of growth. It is ideally adapted for use in <br />
rock-wall and rock gardens "pockets," because its root system is small in <br />
proportion to the visual impact it makes. However, the size, scale, and <br />
placement of Golden Sedum on your layout will determine if you love or hate it -- <br />
because. as much as some garden railroaders love Golden Sedum, others have found that it can <br />
eventually become invasive, if given enough water, flat land, sunshine. If not controlled <br />
by hand-weeding, it has been known <br />
to over-run railroad traks, submerge small bildings, and crop up everywhere on the layout, <br />
becuse even the smallest peices that you drop while weeding <br />
will root where they fall and grow new plants. This is not the fault of the plant, <br />
but rather an inability to appreciate (and logically control) its habit of growth. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><H2> DON HERZOG'S GROUND COVER TIPS:</H2><br />
<br />
Ground covers that may be adaptable to your area are: <br />
<UL><LI>Creeping Thyme <br />
<LI>Elfin Thyme <br />
<LI>Scotch Moss <br />
<LI>Irish Moss <br />
<LI>Rupturewort <br />
<LI>Baby's Tears <br />
<LI>Sedums with small leaves</div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Golden-Sedum-In-Nursery-Pots.jpgFile:Golden-Sedum-In-Nursery-Pots.jpg2017-04-06T19:44:26Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Miniature-thyme.jpgFile:Miniature-thyme.jpg2017-04-06T19:43:49Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Miniature_Ground_CoversMiniature Ground Covers2017-04-06T19:42:13Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div><h2>FOR YOUR GARDEN RAILWAY</h2><br />
<br />
Ground covers are plants that cover bare soil in a carpet of green. They help <br />
hold the soil and give your layout a natural, lush appearance. Any spreading <br />
plant can be considered a ground cover, but for our purposes, and in our region, <br />
ground covers are small-leafed, very low-growing perennials that may also bear flowers <br />
<br clear-all><br />
<H3>MINIATURE GROUND COVER PLANTS</h3><br />
[[File:miniature-thyme.jpg|thumb|400px|left|This is miniature Elfin Thyme in pots, waiting to be set out on a garden railway <br />
layout. Photo by catherine yronwode.]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Ground covers can be purchased at many local nurseries and hardware stores <br />
in our Northern California region throughout the growing season, <br />
but the plants we prize most are those with tiny leaves, "in scale" with our garden <br />
railroad trains. Some of these miniatures are only available from specialized miniature plant <br />
nurseries -- but before you search the internet and send off for potted plants from a <br />
distant source, be sure to check in with your friends at REGRS -- many of us are glad to make <br />
cuttings, provide tip-rooting, or divide and propagate plants for for fellow members. <br />
<br />
<br />
Miniature Thymes of various species and cultivars grow extremely well in our <br />
Mediterranean Zone 9 climate. The Creeping Thymes are especially <br />
prized for their ability to cascade down walls and rockwork, <br />
while Elfin Thym, shown here, makes an ideal carpet of green on flat areas. <br />
The creeping Thymes, as their name implies, may require trimming or diversion of their shoots to <br />
avoid overtaking railroad tracks or small structures. The Elfin thymes do not <br />
cascade, but they grow into solid mats of green, with pale pink or lavender flowers in <br />
season. <br />
<br />
<br />
Thymes enjoy full sun but will tolerate partial shade. They are easy going and not <br />
are not water-intensive. Most of them have deep green or grey-green leaves, <br />
and seasonal blooms in tints of pink, lavender, or purple. <br />
Removing the spent blooms keeps the plants neat and tidy. For fast and effective ground cover, <br />
nothing beats miniature Thyme in our Northern California region. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><br />
[[File:Golden-Sedum-In-Nursery-Pots.jpg|thumb|400px|left|This is Golden Sedum, ready to plant in nusery pots. Photo by catherine yronwode.]]<br />
<br />
There are many other great ground covers suitable for use on garden railroads, <br />
and we all have our favourites. In addition, there are certain <br />
ground cover plants that some gardeners <br />
love, abut others find to be troublesome. <br />
<br />
<br />
Golden Sedum, for instance, provides startling colour <br />
and has an eye-catching habit of growth. It is ideally adapted for use in <br />
rock-wall and rock gardens "pockets," because its root system is small in <br />
proportion to the visual impact it makes. However, the size, scale, and <br />
placement of Golden Sedum on your layout will determine if you love or hate it -- <br />
because. as much as some garden railroaders love Golden Sedum, others have found that it can <br />
eventually become invasive, if given enough water, flat land, sunshine. If not controlled <br />
by hand-weeding, it has been known <br />
to over-run railroad traks, submerge small bildings, and crop up everywhere on the layout, <br />
becuse even the smallest peices that you drop while weeding <br />
will root where they fall and grow new plants. This is not the fault of the plant, <br />
but rather an inability to appreciate (and logically control) its habit of growth. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><H2> DON HERZOG'S GROUND COVER TIPS:</H2><br />
<br />
Ground covers that may be adaptable to your area are: <br />
<UL><LI>Creeping Thyme <br />
<LI>Elfin Thyme <br />
<LI>Scotch Moss <br />
<LI>Irish Moss <br />
<LI>Rupturewort <br />
<LI>Baby's Tears <br />
<LI>Sedums with small leaves</div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Miniature_Ground_CoversMiniature Ground Covers2017-04-06T19:38:09Z<p>Marcus Wolf: create page</p>
<hr />
<div><h2>FOR YOUR GARDEN RAILWAY</h2><br />
<br />
Ground covers are plants that cover bare soil in a carpet of green. They help <br />
hold the soil and give your layout a natural, lush appearance. Any spreading <br />
plant can be considered a ground cover, but for our purposes, and in our region, <br />
ground covers are small-leafed, very low-growing perennials that may also bear flowers <br />
<br clear-all><H3>MINIATURE GROUND COVER PLANTS</h3><br />
<img src=http://regrs.org/miniature-thyme.jpg <br />
align=left width=400 height=300 hspace=20 vspace=10><font size=-1> <br />
This is miniature Elfin Thyme in pots, waiting to be set out on a garden railway <br />
layout. [Photo by catherine yronwode.] <br />
</font><br />
<br />
Ground covers can be purchased at many local nurseries and hardware stores <br />
in our Northern California region throughout the growing season, <br />
but the plants we prize most are those with tiny leaves, "in scale" with our garden <br />
railroad trains. Some of these miniatures are only available from specialized miniature plant <br />
nurseries -- but before you search the internet and send off for potted plants from a <br />
distant source, be sure to check in with your friends at REGRS -- many of us are glad to make <br />
cuttings, provide tip-rooting, or divide and propagate plants for for fellow members. <br />
<br />
<br />
Miniature Thymes of various species and cultivars grow extremely well in our <br />
Mediterranean Zone 9 climate. The Creeping Thymes are especially <br />
prized for their ability to cascade down walls and rockwork, <br />
while Elfin Thym, shown here, makes an ideal carpet of green on flat areas. <br />
The creeping Thymes, as their name implies, may require trimming or diversion of their shoots to <br />
avoid overtaking railroad tracks or small structures. The Elfin thymes do not <br />
cascade, but they grow into solid mats of green, with pale pink or lavender flowers in <br />
season. <br />
<br />
<br />
Thymes enjoy full sun but will tolerate partial shade. They are easy going and not <br />
are not water-intensive. Most of them have deep green or grey-green leaves, <br />
and seasonal blooms in tints of pink, lavender, or purple. <br />
Removing the spent blooms keeps the plants neat and tidy. For fast and effective ground cover, <br />
nothing beats miniature Thyme in our Northern California region. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><img src=http://regrs.org/Golden-Sedum-In-Nursery-Pots.jpg <br />
align=left width=400 height=300 hspace=20 vspace=10><font size=-1> <br />
This is Golden Sedum, ready to plant in nusery pots. [Photo by catherine yronwode.] <br />
</font><br />
<br />
There are many other great ground covers suitable for use on garden railroads, <br />
and we all have our favourites. In addition, there are certain <br />
ground cover plants that some gardeners <br />
love, abut others find to be troublesome. <br />
<br />
<br />
Golden Sedum, for instance, provides startling colour <br />
and has an eye-catching habit of growth. It is ideally adapted for use in <br />
rock-wall and rock gardens "pockets," because its root system is small in <br />
proportion to the visual impact it makes. However, the size, scale, and <br />
placement of Golden Sedum on your layout will determine if you love or hate it -- <br />
because. as much as some garden railroaders love Golden Sedum, others have found that it can <br />
eventually become invasive, if given enough water, flat land, sunshine. If not controlled <br />
by hand-weeding, it has been known <br />
to over-run railroad traks, submerge small bildings, and crop up everywhere on the layout, <br />
becuse even the smallest peices that you drop while weeding <br />
will root where they fall and grow new plants. This is not the fault of the plant, <br />
but rather an inability to appreciate (and logically control) its habit of growth. <br />
<br />
<br clear=all><H2> DON HERZOG'S GROUND COVER TIPS:</H2><br />
<br />
Ground covers that may be adaptable to your area are: <br />
<UL><LI>Creeping Thyme <br />
<LI>Elfin Thyme <br />
<LI>Scotch Moss <br />
<LI>Irish Moss <br />
<LI>Rupturewort <br />
<LI>Baby's Tears <br />
<LI>Sedums with small leaves</div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=Miniature_ConifersMiniature Conifers2017-04-06T19:35:48Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
<hr />
<div>__NOTOC__<br />
<br />
<h2>FOR YOUR GARDEN RAILWAY</h2><br />
<br />
<br />
When it comes to conifers, most are evergreen (the Dawn Redwood is an exception), <br />
but they vary in size and shape from miniature trees with a tall "forested" <br />
look to miniature shrubs that work well along town streets and look great <br />
when planted in pairs flanking entrances and doorways <br />
houses. Far from being a monotonous dark forest green in colour, many <br />
names varieties come in bright shades of lime and chartreuse, and some are vaiegated. <br />
<br clear-all><br />
<H3>MINIATURE CONIFEROUS FORESTS</h3><br />
<br />
[[File:Little-conifers-at-ET&WNC.png|thumb|400px|right|Photo by Becky Herzog.]]<br />
<font size=-1> <br />
Miniature coniferous trees form the "backbone" of a new planting -- <br />
herbacous ground cover plants will added next, to stabilize the <br />
soil and complete the scene. <br />
</font><br />
<br />
The coastal region known as the North Bay Area is an area of mixed <br />
Oak lands, pasture lands, and dense coniferous forests, characterised by <br />
our most spectacular tree, the Coast Redwood. For those of us who live <br />
in the "Redwood Empire," nothing says "home" like a forest of <br />
evergreen conifers. They love our climate and adapt well to the <br />
garden railway environment. <br />
<br />
<br />
Included on many REGRS layouts are various species of mannerly and slow-growing conifers <br />
that, with only light and regular pruning, will retain their shape and size for a decades. Some people <br />
call these selected miniatures "natural bonzai trees," but unlike a true bonzai, they live right <br />
in the ground, year round. Most of them need thorough and frequent watering to thrive, <br />
and a sprinkler or drip irrigation system is an essential part of the planning that goes <br />
into extablishing your own miniature evergreen forest. <br />
<br />
<H2> DON HERZOG'S CONIFEROUS TIPS:</H2><br />
<br />
Coniferous trees that may be adaptable to your area are: <br />
<UL><LI>Alpine Fir <br />
<LI>Mountain Hemlock <br />
<LI>''Juniper communis compressa''<LI>Arborvitae <br />
<LI>Dwarf Mugho Pines such as 'Mitsch Mini' <br />
<LI>''Pinus banksia'' varieties with 1/2 inch needles such as ''Pinus banksia 'Manomet' '' <br />
are very slow growing. Mine is 2 feet tall in 20 years, and absolutely beautiful. <br />
<LI>Several ''Pinus flexilis'' varieties only grow 1/2 to 11/2 inches a year. <br />
<LI>''Chamaecyparis thyoides'' or Dwarf Eastern White Cedars such as 'Little Jamie', <br />
'Meth Dwarf', 'Top Point', 'Andelensis Conica' and 'Ericoides' do well in warm, dry areas <br />
if given afternoon shade. <br />
<LI>There are over a hundred varieties of ''Chamaecyparis obtusa'' or Hinoki <br />
Cypress that take many years to reach a foot or two; named varieties include 'Bess', 'Densa', <br />
'Laxa', 'Intermedia', 'JR', 'Hage', 'Juniperioides', 'Nana', and 'Green Cushion.' <br />
<LI> Another Cypress, ''Chamaecyparis lawsoniana 'Green Globe','' does well in <br />
the shade in hot areas. <br />
<LI>''Chamaecyparis pisifera plumosa compressa'' or Club Moss Cypress seems to do well <br />
in Southern California, even in the smog. <br />
<LI>The ''Thuja occidentalis'' varieites Tiny Tim and Hetz Midget are worth looking for. <br />
<LI>''Picea glauca 'Conica''' or Dwarf Alberta Spruce looks like a peprfect evergreen <br />
when you purchase it, but if not pruned, it may reach 4 to 6 feet in height, so plan ahead. <br />
</UL <br />
<br />
<br />
You can join the American Conifer Society to receive regular information about <br />
the many varieties of dwarf conifers.</div>Marcus Wolfhttps://regrs.org/w/index.php?title=File:Little-conifers-at-ET%26WNC.pngFile:Little-conifers-at-ET&WNC.png2017-04-06T19:29:05Z<p>Marcus Wolf: </p>
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<div></div>Marcus Wolf